Stage 1 Upgrades

Hey Kevin bass here. Vintage bike addiction, bass, Metal Craft. We're here today to look at some stage one upgrades on this 2004 ultra classic. Now, what is the stage one upgrade? What are stage upgrades? We're gonna work with Dennis Kirk on this to show you how simple and easy that just a general garage builder can do and transform their bike into something that's unique in their own. What's cool about Harley's is that there's so there's so many different variations, so many different ways to make them look and it all depends on you the rider, it's your bike, make it your own. And Dennis Kirk helps you do that all the way through every step. Now, there's four stages to upgrades on bikes. Typically that Dennis Kirks will list on your website and they're here to help you with any one of those you get online. You look at the different uh products and they're gonna be shipped today when you order. Now, the stage one upgrades we're gonna talk about today, talk about things like exhaust, uh air cleaner, basic tuning stuff. Looks of the like, how does it look? How does it perform. Is it comfortable? What can you do to upgrade your comfort level? Can you see? Well, things like that. Stage two would be a little more in depth where you start getting like cams and push rods. Stage three big board kid in a motor and then stage four, you'd be porting your heads and going full, full bone. So stage one is definitely the one that most of us garage builders can do on our own. It's the most fun for us to do because that's when you take bike, maybe he just bought a bike, you just got it and it looks like everybody else's. So now it's time for you to tune it in and make it your own. So that when you see it you're like, yep, I did that. I did this, I changed that. So we're gonna look at the stage one upgrade today and we're gonna see how Dennis Kirk can help you get all those components, get him on your bike with your just basic uh mechanic skills and have a bike that looks cool, performs well and is gonna make you happy. So we'll be right back and we'll get after it. All right here, we are doing some stage one upgrades to this 2004 ultra Classic. Thanks to Dennis Kirk. Uh What we got going on here is just some basic upgrades. Make this bike look something like I want it to look like, you know, do some changes, make it a little more comfortable. A couple of things that have been done to this bike already on the stage one, we did get some new grips through Dennis a little more comfort level there in the chrome. They look good. We did put a uh, a phone mount on here so that when we're on the road and we need GPS or whatnot or music that goes on there, we did put it in a new, uh, aquatic stereo and, uh, Brian Clock, Clockworks windshield and all this stuff came from Dennis Kirk, went online, clicked on it, picked out your, your, uh, components that fit your year and model bike and it shipped today and it got here. So couple mi minor things, but they really help out the windshield helps with the airflow. Bugs aren't in my face. My hat's not flying off. Grips are great for the comfort level. And again, the phone mode. Now we're gonna look at comfort of the bike itself sitting on a bike. We're gonna look at our seat and the way this bike handles and sits. Now, the first thing you really remember is that a seat that has tears in, it is gonna cause a wet butt. Ok. Anytime these bikes are outside it rains out, they get wet, this soaks up all that water and rain water in there. So when you sit on, it's just a big sponge. Now your butt's wet. Nobody likes that and I'm sure everybody out there has had that happen once or twice on an old bike or whatever. But we're gonna address that today by getting rid of this old seat and this is the stocks style seat. Um, and these seats, you know, they sell them on the bike from the factory. They kind of fit the look of the bike with a tour pack and whatnot. But overall comfort, there's a lot of upgrades nowadays that you can do to make these things way more comfortable. These bikes are made to hit the road, do a lot of miles, right. You wanna only stop if you're doing a long trip and you need to cover so many miles a day, you really only wanna stop when it's time to get gas. And if your seats not comfortable, you start to get the sore spots, you back hurts, things aren't feeling right. You're gonna have to stop a lot more often. It's gonna, it's gonna cause problems. So we're gonna look at today how to take this old stock seat off and do some upgrades to make it more comfortable and look better. So to start to get your seat off of a bike like this, we have a tour pack on here. Now, this is a quick release style tour pack. Uh There are lights wired into it. So you want to start by disconnecting your wi your wiring connectors, pull them apart, make sure nothing is attached, both sides will have them pushing the tab and pull the connector out. They come out real nice. Now, we can release the tour pack itself on the backside and you want to be very careful when you do this step because you don't wanna scratch your paint. We're gonna slowly lift it off and then we'll move the tour pack into a safe location out of the way. Now, you can see just by taking that tour pack off the whole bikes looks kind of changed. Now, it's going from the, the big ultra classic full dresser to more of a sporty kind of a cruiser look. But like I said, the stock seat, now you look at the stock seat with the tour pack off. It has kind of that, uh, doesn't really look that, that clean and smooth anymore. So we're gonna look at taking this off and trying some other options. Now, one of the cheapest options anybody can do if you don't wanna replace the whole seat and maybe you have some cracks and tears, um, is just buy a, a strap on style pad and Dennis Kirk sells all kinds of different variations of pads. This one here you can see there's a little Velcro or a rubber strap will go in the front and this will just strap right on her. Now, this would help me obviously keep myself dry. It's waterproof underneath the top has the nice fuzz to it and it's a gel so it'll make the, the ride more comfortable. Now, there are many options. There's all kinds of different options that are gel seat, uh, covers that you can buy and this is the cheapest, easiest, quickest way to do it. Uh, the other step now that we want to do with this one since we know this seat. Mm. A good day off. Since we know the seat needs to be replaced anyway. And we wanna do something that looks a little cooler when I don't have the tour pack on is we're gonna take this seat off and we're gonna try some different variations of some seats from Dennis Kirk. So I'll stay tuned. I'll be right back and we'll get after it. All right. Now, we're gonna continue our stage one updates here on this bike. Uh Thanks to Dennis Kirk. Fix my hog. We're here to show you how easy it can be to make your bike look a little bit different, a little bit cooler and make it your own. So we talked about removing the tour pack and we looked at the stock seat that the bikes come with. Obviously, we talked about the, it's got some uh, problems with it. Water will come seeping through with the tour pack off. It looks kind of bulky and out of place. Not really cool for a solo rider. So we're gonna do our first step here, uh is just to take this seat off and swap it out. So to do that, all we have to do is remove the rear mountain bolt here, carefully, remove that to the side. Now, the seat should just lift up and slide out as you can see there. So we got the front keeper here that goes into the frame. Then you got the rear tab that bolts to the fender. So now we can remove this old beat up torn seat and get rid of it and use some of our new Dennis Kirk replacements to show you how nice this can look. So this one gets put out of the way. Um First of all, I'm gonna try on here. This is a nice little solo seat now. Yeah, you can still have a passenger on this. But traditionally, when you have a really small pad in the back, it's not the best for somebody to be sitting on the back. This one's made more for, hey, I wanna take this bike. I'm gonna be by myself just cruising. I'm not gonna have a passenger what can make this bike kind of really get smooth and sleek looking and a little more stylish. So we're gonna take this one, install it there. And as you can see it gives the bike a whole new look, a whole new dynamic, everything kind of streamlines. Now more you don't have that big, huge bulky rear pad. You have a little more low profile in here contours up to the tank better and give it just a nice little sport your look. Ok. So that's a good option and it's nice with these bikes, like I say, you know, you customize it to your own taste. Ok. There's, you know, this one has red stitching. They have solid black ones, they have white stitching, they have all different color combinations. Browns, you name it. Check out Dennis kk.com. You'll see their whole selection of seats and pick one out that looks right for you and feels right to you and put it on and your bike is customized. Now, the other option I'm gonna go with. Now again, we talked about how you can have a, a seat like this. Now, that's more streamlined. It might be a little less comfortable. We do have those gel pads that you can just lay right on the seat to ride and then take them off when you get parked. So it doesn't look all bulky. Uh But again, this is just an option, cheaper option to go. We actually have another style seat, a saddle style seat that has built in gel that we're gonna try next. So I'm gonna remove that. We're gonna take that seat off and this seat now has kind of a combination of the stock bike look with a little more streamline and it's got gel built into it. And again, this one I got right off of Dennis kirt.com. We'll put that one in. Slide that in. All right, now that we have the nice saddling gel uh seat installed on the bike we're gonna put on the backrest that came with it again. Uh Thanks to Dennis Kirk for getting us this seat and we're gonna slide that in and I'm gonna swing a leg over just to see how it feels and uh give it its first test. So now again, what's nice about this seat? Oh, the gel, I can feel the gel. It removes those pinch and sore spots that you could get on traditional style seats. And now I have a nice backrest. So when I'm cruising down the road, I can lean back into that and really keep that lumbar support and this feels great. Feels great. So I wanna thank Dennis Kirk, helping us get this thing comfortable ready for some miles. When we come back, we're gonna go on to some more stage one updates which include uh, lighting taillight headlights and go from there. So see you soon. All right. Now we're gonna remove the license plate and license plate bracket and then we'll be able to get the stock tail light off. So to get at your mounting bolts for the license plate bracket itself, you gotta take the plate off. It's kind of hidden behind. All right, once you get the license plate off, you notice now there's your two bolts that are hidden behind that plant mount. I'm gonna get those off. All right. Now you can see that that's off. We should be able to slide the tail light up once we get this dissembled. So we'll take off the cover first. Once the cover is loose, we gotta disconnect the electrical here. Push up on the tab that slides out. Nice and neat. Sit that aside. Now, we wanna loosen up. So, but hold on and this one has never been touched before off. So they should be a little sticky just from time. So you might have to pry it a little bit, wiggle it a little bit, get it moving, just be careful. You don't want to slide up and scratch your paint or do any damage. All right. So the final step on removing the stock tail light, we wanna disconnect all electrical connections carefully, remove the backer plate, push the wires through and on this stock style, there's a circuit board model inside this housing. We're gonna reuse that circuit board with the new Led style. So you just got a pop that off. It just comes right off with a couple of tabs. So this will no longer be used from the stock setup. Put that aside with the tailor itself, but we will reuse the circuit board. So as a direction state now locate and provide a gasket align over the opening in a rear fender, pull the wiring harness through the gasket. So we have our gasket first. It comes off of the late itself. See how the gasket will match up with the late as seen there. So we know this is gonna be the top and that's the bottom I seen there. So this gasket is gonna go on that way for reference and we're gonna pull the wires through the gasket. There's some built in little slots. All right. Now that we have the wires pulled through the gasket for the new system, we gotta pull the wiring harness components through the backing plate. This is the new backing plate that comes with the led light. I need to pull that through, make sure it's gonna fit in there that goes. So now I can take her lights, plug them in. Hm. And not a lot of room to work with. So it's tight at T white here. Now we're gonna do, we got everything hooked up loosely. It's not together. So we're gonna test this. We did run into an issue uh earlier where we shorted out a fuse. So the brake light actually wouldn't work. So be very careful when you're uh disconnecting and reconnecting. Always double check that everything works before you do your final final in case something like that happens because you don't want to get everything together and realize something's wrong. So we're gonna turn on the ignition just to visually see that the light works and we're gonna hit the brake and you can see the brake light. Now does actuate as required. So we're good there. So now I feel comfortable to start putting all this together as one piece and again, not a lot of room to work. So it's gonna be a little bit of a wiggle room here. Take this out first circuit board fits in only one way. So I see that carefully and then bring the backing plate on. There are two small allens that go underneath. These are the hard ones now to get at. So you gotta be careful. This might be a good time or if you had the know how add a little bit of extra length to those wires to give you a chance to pull it out. You just gotta be careful cause when the wires tucked back in, they could hang it caught by your tire that's gonna be rotating in there. So, all right. Now the booth bolts are tight. I'm gonna do one more check just to make sure nothing got pinched or it's inoperable and everything's still working. So we're good there. Now, our final steps here are gonna be seat the gasket up over our connectors here. So we no longer need the stock mounting, uh, threaded part there because this is gonna go through and be bolted to the backside. Now, giving it the first look, see that on there before it's bolted tight. You can see now we get a much nicer cleaner flush look. We got the nice American flag you know, one last time, make sure it all works. It does and all I have to do is secure the nut underneath from the inside, which I'll do off camera and she's ready to go. So, a little bit of elbow grease, a little bit of sweat, you can see that. Just like anything you're gonna run into problems. There's a solution to every problem. If you just think about it, sit back, look at it, uh re evaluate what's going on and it'll come through and work, right? So the firefighter special now has a nice American flag. Uh, taillight led thanks to Dennis Kirk and now we're gonna move on to the headlights, headlights. Next stage two update we're gonna talk about are your headlights? One of the most important safety factors when you ride a motorcycle is having good headlights. Um, not only at night, but during the day when people can still see that light flashing motorcycles are smaller than the car. Obviously, they often get overlooked. People don't see them. You wanna have your lights on all the time. You want nice bright lights that will catch the attention of other motorists so that they know you're there and you can stay safe at night. Very, very important. If your headlights are dirty, they're old, they're not up to par. It's very hard to see the road to get home at night. Plus you don't see as many of the obstructions that might come up ahead, like deer run across the street or things in the road. So one of the, uh, most probably important stage one updates I would say would be to get yourself some really good bright lighting so that you can see the road. People can see you and you can get yourself around safely. So, on this one, we have the stock headlight and, uh, sidelights here, we are gonna replace this whole thing. Now with a new hog works led blackout system. What's gonna be nice about this is that not only has it got kind of a cool look to it with the black bezel and the bright lights, but it's gonna give you, you know, quadruple the lumo in going down the road, it's gonna be way brighter than what this old uh stock style light is and they're durable. They last forever led s don't draw as much power but they're brighter and they don't burn out like the traditional bulbs would. So to begin this, we're gonna start just by removing the stock assembly here and then we'll see what it takes to retrofit this led system into this bike. Now, in the manual, I always uh recommend looking at the manual. The manual does tell you how to take out the headlight and whatnot. They do it in mine. When I looked at it, it says to remove the whole front ferry to work on this. We don't need to do that for what we're doing, we can get everything from the front. So to save ourselves a lot of time and work doing something we don't have to do. We're gonna not take the ferry off itself, but we're just gonna take this bezel off the front and uh work right from outside again though. Look at your year make and model of bike. Some maybe do require this has to come off. Maybe they don't have a removable depending on what you have. So real important to always look at what model you have and go from there. So I'm gonna carefully remove that trim. Now, another thing that's kind of important if you're really worried about your paint job and worried about maybe dropping something. There's always kind of cover up your, your fender, cover up areas where if you drop something, you don't chip that. So I just, uh, usually lay just a soft cloth or something over that. I don't go overkill on it. But that way if you would drop it, you're not gonna chip the paint. Ok. So now that we have the bezel off, now we can see here that this headlights held in by this little trim ring here with three screws. So I'm gonna take them off start with the lower one here. Now, when I remove the top one, I kinda use my hand here to hold the light just so it can't fall out and hit the fender. You wouldn't want to be free handed up here because then when that releases, this can drop out. So I put my hand there to kind of support the light while I take that last screw out. And now I can keep it supported and carefully pull it out here, disconnect your plug, little three prong plug there. And now I can take this and set it aside as well. So now we got our stock headlight out. No, we are gonna be running this led style. But you'll notice the backside of this is quite a bit different than the backside of the stocks style. This has the small, narrow, skinny, it fits through there. This would not fit in there, ok? With the led technology and the wearing and the circuitry, they need totally different animal here. So that means that this whole mounting basil there is gonna get replaced as well and hog works was nice enough to know that in advance and supply you a new one in their kit. So here's gonna be our new one that replaces the old one. See the difference. This has more room for it to fit where that was too small. So now we wanna take the stop buzzle out of there so that we can hook up our new system and just looking over the directions. It's always nice to give it a quick look, make sure everything's on the right track, you will reuse some of the stuff, ok? So to take this out. You can see there's 12, three looks like four star torque bits that hold this bezel in place. I'll grab my torques screwdriver. All right. Now that that's been removed again, you can see how we're replacing one with the other. Ok. So I'm gonna sit down side now, we want to mount our bezel. You can see that the mounting screw it tab for that trim ring because we will reuse the original trim ring here and it's only got one screw at the very bottom. So we wanna keep that index correctly. So that that's still at the bottom. So we know that's gonna be up, that's gonna be down. So it's our trimming mounting right there. Pull our wires through here, line that up and see where we have screw holes that match and snow there. That thing's nice and tight. All right. So now that we have our new bezel housing in for the light and take our stock light does have a protective coating on it just to be careful if you would scratch it or drop it by accident. There is a top and a bottom. It says hog works here. You can read it dot So you want that upright, it will also fit in. There's some slots here with the headlight where it only fits in a certain way. All right, headlight is installed. Now, this moment of truth, notice how much brighter that is highs and lows, everything's working good. That's gonna give us much better visibility on the road. People will see us a lot better and that's a nice, fairly easy stage one upgrade. Now, we're gonna do one more upgrade to the lighting system, doing our spotlights and we will use some more of the hog works brand led lights from Dennis Kirk. Great quality, easy to install. Open these up and these ones here, it's nice black, it'll match nicely up front. Uh There's an adapter if needed, depending on how the wiring looks. When I get the part, just looking at the instructions quick, just basically taking up the old ones out, you should plug in. So let's see how it goes. We'll start with this one on the right side, sit there side, Trine pops off. Ok. So this is a good, good uh learning experience for everybody. My uh spotlights there you can see, have the old style, there's two separate plugins coming in. So on a newer style bike, this will be a plug and play right into your harness here. I have a 2004 we're working on right now which has the older style uh wiring. But uh they supply you with this nice adapter. So all I have to do is cut these two wires, splice them into this and then we'll have plug and play flat lights. So what I'm gonna have to do now is go get a wiring kit. So I can snip these wires and do a little soldering. We'll get going on that here shortly. We'll be right back. All right. So now we're gonna get ready to trim these wires or cut them uh to splice into our adapter for our led spotlights. So I'm just gonna trim each one off. Take the stock one set aside. I will be reusing this hosing. Now, the black wire here goes the ground which you can see is grounded to our bezel. The gray black wire is our power on our adapter. We have a red and a black red is obviously power black will go to the black for the ground. So what I'm gonna do here then is just carefully strip the sheeting off my wars. My warre stripper give me enough to work with strip the layers here. So we have nice beer wars to be able to splice these together. We're gonna use some of these soldered uh heat shrink marine bolt connectors. What's nice about these is when you put your wires together, splice and you put this over. And as you heat shrink, the tubing, the heat shrink tubing, uh cinches tight and waterproofs it. But also then there's a a nice low voltage shoulder on there that will melt and actually create a soldered connection. I always recommend any kind of wire or anything that could potentially get wet. Always side of your connections. Always use heat shrink tube, make sure that it's secure because water will get into that stuff and cause problems. So I'm gonna slide the heat shrink tube over the first connection. Here, go past. Then we'll connect their two wires by twisting them around each other. Locking them in nicely. Then we bring our shrink tubing over the top of their shoulder right in the middle covering your connection. Now, I can use my heat gun. Now, when I look at this, I can see that the solder did melt and connected those two joints and then our heat shrink tube, uh, sucked itself tight. Now it's a waterproof, tight, soldered connection. Nice and simple. Do the same for the other side. Oh, there we go. And now I think you can tell just from seeing what you see quite a difference in the brightness that people are gonna see that's gonna lighten up the road that's gonna keep you safe. You notice how dull and dark looking that one was so real good upgrade. Nice. Stage two, easy to do type upgrade and it's gonna make a big difference on the road. I'm excited to see this in at night. So now the last step will be to tuck our wires, keep everything secure again. There's an up and a down and then we'll reuse the old stuck bezel here that over the top. We wanna make sure we line these up. There's three vertical glass lenses there. We want those lined up this way. So that your light shines correctly. It does say dot S A at the top. So make sure that's at the top just like over here. Then we know we're lined up correctly and we can use our standard hardware again, nice and snug before I do the other side, you can also just visually look at the aesthetics, how much better this looks with that compared to what the stocks style set up would have been and again, much brighter. All right, we'll go ahead and uh take the other side apart, strip the wires side of it, get it back together and then we'll be buttoning up the headlights and running lights looking good, easy, fairly easy, very important upgrade. When you do stage one again is the lighting as you can see the look now gives you kind of a nicer look with the blacked out uh backing and the led lights. It's gonna give me plenty of light on the road. Looks nice with our tinted windshield and we're ready to hit the road and uh test everything out. So as you've seen from all the stage one things so far, you know, a lot of these things, they, they take a little bit of time, you might run into a few little snags here and there, a little bit of elbow grease. But you know, a basic garage builder can do this stuff. It's not out of your reach. Um Just don't get frustrated. We all hit snags. We all hit some problems and it happens, you just gotta stop, take a deep breath, re evaluate the problem. There's always a solution to every problem. Take your time and you'll get it and you'll be successful and have the outcome similar to this where you got something that you can be proud of now and show off to your friends when you're cruising down the road. So our last steps to the stage one upgrade are gonna be, uh, we're gonna go ahead and replace our spark plugs with some new uh, new spark plugs and then we're gonna do a little bit of a, a kind of a chrome bezel trimming package on here to dress up our dash and then we'll have this bike looking pretty good. We can get out in the road and, and pound some more miles. All right, the next uh step in our stage one upgrade. Just kind of helping this bike get to run better. Feel better look better is our spark plugs. Now, the manual does state you should inspect your spark plugs at 5000 miles and replace them every 10,000 or so. Um, it's good, uh, common practice. So just to pull them out maybe once a year and check them because what the spark plugs are gonna do. They're gonna tell you a story if you pull a spark plug out and it's really dark and sooty and black on it, it's running really rich, if it's really white and, and not, you know, chocolate brown color, it's running lean and you don't want that either. So you want that nice, uh, nice look to it. The book does give you pictures, tells you what different uh scenarios are, whether you're lean, you're rich, things that are going wrong with it. Um In this case, now we're gonna be using these E three high performance spark plugs, set of the stock ones. Uh The gap for this, we look at our gap, it says that we want to be gapped at about 038 to So we have our spark plug gap tool here. We're gonna come around here, pull the spark plug boot on one cylinder first, put a spark plug wrench on there, carefully break the seal, being careful not to pull or twist to snap that off. All right. So as you can see here, uh with the electronic fuel ignition on this thing, it does kind of regulate that. We got a nice little chocolate brown color. It's not running too rich. If that was real white looking, it would be too lean. So this bike is running pretty optimal. Then we'll check our gap just to see where they have these at. We put our gap tool in there so they're right around 0.040 40 thou which is good. Take one of our new plugs out of the package here being careful not to drop it. That one looks good. Read about 040, as well. Be real careful. You don't want any debris to be around here. It could fall on your cylinder. Make sure that when you put these in, you carefully thread them in correctly. Don't cross thread. If it fights you stop, it should go in smooth and easy. Again. If I would feel any major resistance or problems, I would stop and check my threads. Make sure it's not cross thread and there's no garbage in there. Get them just finger tight. Then I will put my plug wrench on there, snug spark plug, boot back on front cylinder. And again, I just always look, make sure there's no garbage or debris. If there would be, you'd want to blow that out beforehand. This one's pretty clean. Front one is running a little bit, a little bit richer than the rear, but it's not bad or it would be falling out. So I'm not going to worry about that at this time. Been running good. Gaps. Look good. All right. Now that we got them on, I will just do a quick start, make sure everything's good. So starts good. Should run good. Now and again, you wanna check those plugs. I do it at once a year just to make sure nothing's going on there. Um Even things like if your air cleaner gets clogged up that can cause the bike to run real rich and by pulling the plugs, it'll tell you that story. So good. Good. Uh, rule. Try to do that once a year at least pull them on. Look at them if you don't replace them and your bike will run real good. Uh, the last update now we're gonna do in the stage one. It's gonna be a little dress up kit. We're gonna dress up our gauges with some chrome bezels. All right, for the last step of our stage one upgrade, we're gonna do a little bit of a trim ring chrome uh accessory kit and that's gonna kind of dress up our gauges. Give us a little fancier look than the stock. These go on with some double sided stick tape. So all you gotta do is put the stick tape on, line them up on here, make sure everything's clean. I wiped the ring down with Acetone first and stick it on. Now you can see where your gauges are inside. There got a little chrome dress up kit. So we have all the different gauges to do. So there is the double sided stick tape goes on and then the tremoring pushes on. Nice and snug. You hear it kind of see itself. Uh So I can kind of see the difference of the nice chrome compared to the stock black. Make sure they're nice and snug I wear the double sided stick will do its job lock that in. Mm. All right. Now, as you can see the stock kind of bland gauges. Uh got dressed up. Nice little chrome trim rings. Very simple, easy to do fix, but now it matches up good. Well, there you have it. That's your stage one upgrades just to kind of go over it one more time. What do we all do this spike? What makes this thing different now to be in that stage one upgrade? Uh We did the headlight, we did the uh spotlights with a nice led blacked out lights. We got a Clockworks, nice low profile windshield line here. We got some Kak and grips which helped make it more comfortable. We put a ra MF uh phone holder on there. We did our chrome bezel trim package. Uh We have uh the new seat which will give us more comfort and longevity in our rides. Uh We did the tail light with the nice American flag led Kak and to match our firefighter special and other things that are included in stage one would be like your exhaust tips. We have some ban and Heinz exhaust on here now to help it run a little better and sound a little better. We did the spark plugs, updated spark plugs and some high performance spark plugs and other little things like, uh you know, custom shift your pegs horn cover, air cleaner cover, all that stuff can be done to really make the bike your own. And the biggest thing you wanna do is just, you know, sit back, look at your bike, think about the stage one updates you can do and understand that you can do it. Don't feel like you gotta take it to a shop, take it to the dealership and pay twice as much to have it done. If you got some wrenches at home, you get on Dennis kirk.com, put in your make model of your bike, everything that's compatible with it will show up. You can pick through that, put your shopping cart, order it and it ships today and you'll have it in the next day or two. So go out there and get that bikes, uh, dialed in and we'll see you on the road.