Bob LaRosa

Shifter Pawl Adjustment: Tips and Techniques

Bob LaRosa
Duration:   7  mins

Description

If you have a pre-2007 Harley-Davidson with a five-speed transmission, it is important to know how to make a correct shifter pawl adjustment. The only part of the shift pawl assembly that is seen on an assembled transmission is the shift shaft that exits from the left-side transmission case and is secured into the transmission shift arm. This shift arm can be know as the last component of the shift linkage assembly.

The purpose of the shift pawl assembly is to push or pull, forward and back on the shift drum. This motion turns the shift drum which, in turn, moves the shift forks. Finally, the shift forks slide their corresponding transmission gears on the mainshaft and countershaft, giving us gear change and neutral position. For a good visual example of a shift pawl assembly, Google JIMS #2384.

If your shift pawl assembly is ever in need of replacement due to a broken shaft weld or a stripped shaft spline, this is the best possible replacement part. Stronger than an OEM replacement. For correct shift operation, the shift pawl assembly needs to be correctly centered over the centering pin.

In order to check for correct shifter pawl adjustment; lift the rear wheel of the motorcycle and shift into third gear (it is best if the shift linkage is removed from the transmission shift arm). Now, gently (without up or down shifting) push forward and back on the transmission shift arm. You should feel an equal amount of spring pressure forward and back. If the movement or spring pressure is not split equally, the assembly is in need of shifter pawl adjustment.

Adjustment is easiest to do in instances when the primary drive is removed. However, the adjustment can still be made with either a specialty tool or with modified 1116” and 14” wrenches. Loosen the 11116” jam nut and make small adjustments with the 14” wrench.

The pin will tend to move when re-tightening the jam nut. Even if the pin is held while tightening the nut, it may take a number of attempts before you are satisfied with your adjustment. Next time you are servicing your five-speed Harley, take a few minutes and inspect your shift pawl adjustment. This is also an important inspection to make if you are having trouble shifting or finding neutral.

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6 Responses to “Shifter Pawl Adjustment: Tips and Techniques”

  1. Lukas

    I have a 2003 Deuce and I don't believe it has the adjuster you refer to in your video. I checked the manual and there is no reference made to the pawl adjustment. My issue is that the bike is not shifting into gear at all when moving the shifter. It's just perpetually in neutral. Not even sure if its a pawl adjustment issue, but thought I would start there. Thanks

  2. Dennis Santopietro

    Q: I am trying to adjust my shifter paw and I saw your video. My dad owns a motorcycle shop in sandusky ohio, M&M Cycles/Mozaic Racing. I watched the youtube video you put up and it doesnt mention where you can buy the special tools. Would you be able to help me find them? A: We have had those tools for decades. May no longer be available. They were mainly for demonstration purposes. Suggest finding 2 sacrificial wrenches. 11/16" & 1/4". Bend, cut, grind them as needed.

  3. john

    1999xlh1200 jumpin outta1st gear when turnin right.. But no issuses findin neutral etc. Just installed new clutch .. Deleted springplate. And added 2 steels n 2 fibers.. Also replaced shift shaft n paw with good used pieces.primary, ramp , etc. Runs great but feels like its skipping belt?? In 1st gear, especially leaning right

  4. Conrad

    04 Road King my shifter power adjustment doesn't have a bolt just the Allen screw and I know how I turn it won't move it at all to Center

  5. samuel

    Wow , So much stuff. I'm having trouble with neutral , when running wont shift up. I I cut the bike off finds it with no problem. Seems like it shifts ok but has a little pull when cold with the lever pulled in.

  6. David Bell

    Where do you get the specialty wrenches for shift pawl adjustment?

Hi, I'm Bob LaRosa. Welcome to Fix My Hog. I like to take a moment and discuss a problem that's very common. Finding neutral. Lotta people claim it's difficult to find neutral, whether the engine's running or the engine's stationary or the motorcycle's stationary. The engine's in a static position. A quick adjustment that you can make, and this adjustment can be classified as the first adjustment to make, or the last, depending upon what you think the primary cause of the false or hard neutral may be. This adjustments known as shifter pawl centering, or shifter pawl adjustment. This is the shifter arm. This arm leads directly through the transmission case to the shift drum mechanism itself. On the end of this arm is a hook and that hook needs to be centered in the pin. The arm I'm speaking of is the pawl arm. The pin is what centers the arm. If that adjustment is too far forward or too far back, your pawl centering adjustment is not correct. In order to check pawl adjustment, you wanna put the motorcycle on the lift. Make sure it's secured. Get the back wheel just off the ground. Put the motorcycle in third gear. Once the motorcycle's in third gear, you can gently pull on the shift arm. You should have an equal distance back and forward from center. If that distance is not equal, that may be the cause of your false or hard-to-find neutral. You'll wanna take a moment, refer to your service manual about correct adjustment procedures. I wanna take a moment and show you a specialty tool. This tool is 11/16ths, which is the size of the locknut on the pawl adjusting mechanism. And the other adjustment tool is quarter inch. That is the size of the post that comes out and that you can make fine adjustments to the pawl arm with these tools. It's a fact of sliding the tool in there, getting it over the 11/16ths nut and loosening the nut. Once the nut is loose, you can then install the quarter-inch specialty tool. Put it over the quarter-inch posts and then make small incremental turns to adjust the position of the shifter arm. Now there's many causes for hard-to-find or false neutral. Could be a poorly-adjusted clutch. Whether it be internal or on the cable. It could be an extremely worn clutch pack. It could be inadequate amount of clutch fluid or primary fluid. Too much clutch fluid or primary fluid. Or old, worn clutch or primary fluid. The problems that compound and make people believe they need a pawl adjustment are many. A lotta times, a good service adjustment, inside and out, fresh fluid and neutral, again, is easy to find. The best thing to do is to ask the person who's having difficulty finding neutral as many questions as you can. Is it predominantly difficult to find when it's hot? When it's cold? When the motorcycle's off? When you're running? Are you trying to find neutral as you come to a stop? Are you're trying to find neutral when you're sitting at a light or at a standstill and you've got the clutch in and you just can't seem to pop it into neutral and let go of the clutch and relax? There's a number of reasons why neutral can be difficult to find. One of them that I've seen in the past is directly related to the clutch pack design. They have what's known as a spring plate in the center of the pack. And if that spring plate works itself loose and spreads open, it makes the clutch pack thicker and keeps the clutch from becoming disengaged and neutral becomes very difficult to find. If you're able to narrow down all the avenues and all the roads lead towards a misaligned pawl adjustment, remember, always the motorcycle in third. Then do a good thorough visual. Push forward and push back. The spring pressure should be split evenly. The amount of, let's call it free play, in the shift arm should be split evenly between center. From there again, you loosen the 11/16ths locknut, make minor adjustments to the quarter-inch stem that sticks out of the locknut. Make a small adjustment in the direction needed. Tighten the locknut. Test it. Don't just go spin that adjuster half a turn and think all your problems are gonna go away. And once you make a pawl adjustment, lock that locknut. It shouldn't change. So if you do a correct, thorough pawl adjustment, whether it's with a specialty tool or a modified 11/16ths inch wrench and a quarter-inch wrench, you do a good, thorough pawl adjustment in third gear and you find neutral still impossible to find. I'd highly recommend reviewing the service manual. Ask around. Get as much input as you can, and then pursue other avenues. Whether it's clutch adjustment, fluid replacement, or clutch pack inspection.
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