How To Remove Stripped Bolts

Let's now take a look at what's a pretty common problem. Allen bolts that either get stripped through improper usage, being over torqued or, in this case, as you can see on the base of this FL muffler, even under normal riding conditions it's not unusual to scuff the base of the pipe against the pavement. Normal leaning angles, you will catch that. You don't need to be an aggressive rider. It's just a common thing that occurs. Problem is, it flattens out the Allen. If you ever need to remove this Allen to remove the end cap, let's say to change a baffle, or install or replace the packing on the baffle, you'll have to get this bolt out. First thing you need to do, remove any road debris that may be trapped in the bolt. As you can see, there's actually asphalt coming out of this. Make sure you clean it up real good. But it doesn't change the fact that the head of the Allen bolt is mushroomed over so much that the Allen bit won't fit into it correctly. Before you try to remove that bolt, even though it's chrome and there is some damage, put some tape around it. Don't cause any additional damage, whether it's on the bottom of a muffler that's not exposed or an exposed area. Learn to work safely. Learn to work clean. You don't want to cause any damage to any other chrome on the muffler. First thing you like to do find a Torx bit. Even though it's an Allen, the Allen won't fit in there. I can certainly tap the Allen into the head of the bolt but the Allen only gives you a limited number of sides to grab the bolt with. I recommend finding a Torx that is the next size larger where it just won't fit in there. Gently tap the Torx bit into the mushroomed Allen head. Again, if you need a second set of hands to work with have them hold the muffler in place. Make sure that Torx is in place nice and straight and that its driven deeply, as deep as it can go, into the head of the Allen bolt. From here, what I typically like to do instead of just diving right in getting a ratchet on there and twisting it, I like to try and shock the bolt loose with what's known as regular hand-hammered style impact. Make sure it's headed in the right direction. Counter-clockwise to loosen. And just give it a quick rap. One of two things is going to happen. Either the Torx bit itself is going to grab the stripped portion of the head on the Allen bolt causing it to come free or you'll strip the Torx into the Allen. Not necessarily a bad thing. A lot of times it'll open it up where you can get a better bite with the same size Allen bit or even jump the next size Torx bit. All right. Now I said, if you strip out this size Torx it may give you a better bite with the next size Allen. So if this Torx strips take a moment, see if you can find an Allen bit that fits correctly, if not then jump to the next size Torx bit. You remove the hand impact. And you'll find just by the jarring motion it's caused that bolt to loosen right up and you're able to remove it. Naturally, it's locked to the end of the Torx bit. So if you want to remove your tool without causing damage to the Torx, just start it a couple threads gently rock the tool out of the Allen head because you did drive it into it with a hammer. Then you can just-the bolt is loose. You can remove it by hand. You go about your business remove the end cap, remove the baffle, if you're heading out to make some more noise, replace the baffle packing material, reassemble it. Again, for what the cost of a bolt like this is, don't install the bolt that has the compromised head on it. Always buy a new replacement bolt. You may find they even make bolts in a Torx configuration. You're better off to put the Torx in there. Cause you know, you're only going to jam it against the ground in the next aggressive corner that you happen to go through.