Electra Glide Front Fairing Removal

we're gonna cover front fork adjustment, service, and maintenance. This is quite a long process there's quite a few areas I wanna touch in on detail. Again, the service manual is invaluable. At this point we're gonna remove the three top fasteners, they're Torx T27s that hold the windshield, sandwiched between the inner and outer fairing. In order to remove the windshield from the inner and outer fairing. The two inner bolts the uppermost torques inside the fairing have to be loosened at before the three bolts on the top of the outer fairing are removed and the windshield can be taken out of the fairing. You set the fair the windshield aside, these windshields are made out of Lexan. You're not to use any rain-x, any waxes just a mild detergent paper towels. If you over tighten them, you will fracture the windshield this crack much like glass will spread upwards through the windshield, you'll have to replace this if you crack it from over tightening. back to the outer fairing with the windshield removed we're gonna remove the lower pass and lamp bolts there's two on each side. I always like to put an extra layer of protection besides having all the painted pieces covered we'll remove the two bolts on each side. There's a lower one that's slotted horizontally there's an upper bolt on the passing lamp bracket that's slotted vertically. Again these motorcycles the Harley-Davidson Touring Models they're large motorcycles. It's a good idea to work with someone work with someone as competent as yourself with some type of mechanical aptitude. Don't drag them along with you through a service you may not be familiar with. At this point we're gonna remove the four T27 Torx fasteners that retain the inner housing to the outer fairing. These bolts are on the inner fairing. I already have one removed to make things nice and simple to see. The two upper bolts are located near your speakers on the inner fairing. The two lower bolts are just about hidden behind the front fork. You look around you can find them again i wanna stress not crossing threads. These are only a brass insert that's knurled into the ABS plastic. If you cross thread the bolts, you'll put the insert out. It's not the end of the world. You don't have to throw the fairing away the inserts are replaceable, but why do things incorrectly do them twice. With the four inner bolts removed I'm gonna remove my upper near the speaker housing, I'm gonna remove my lower which like i said is in quite an obscure place. It's right behind the front fork if you look around with a flashlight, it is visible. This point with our passing lamps hanging down below. We can lift the outer fairing off. Note that the headlamp is still connected and that it is a squeeze style lamp plug running horizontally if you squeeze it together the plug comes off easily. Any and all of these electrical connectors should come off fairly easily. If you have to fight with them you have to remember someone at the factory did not fight to put this motorcycle together. They basically assembled it in an easy manner. With the headlight and the outer fairing removed, we can now unplug our passing lamps. Mark will come in with a 90 degree pick. Hit the center of the connector and slide them apart easily. Again there shouldn't be much struggling. There's also a four pin connector, which you'll find attached to the left side upper fairing bracket on a notch. This four place connector powers your turn signals and powers your passing lamps. That point you have the passing lamps unwired. They can be removed completely from the motorcycle as an assembly. Set them aside out of the way like i said there's quite a bit we're gonna cover today. There's quite a bit in the front end area that we wanna cover. Mark just unplug the antenna from the radio. This point you'll note there's a large connector that goes into the back of the radio. The slide mechanism is underneath the plug. A 90 degree pick is very helpful, slide the connector off. You'll note there's also a couple connectors that are hung off of the radio. Make sure that these are slid out of their brackets and just leave them set aside. As much wiring as you see here it's not really that bad because every wire has a purpose. Again a nice idea while you're in here poke around. Don't be afraid to tug and look, look for chafing. Look for any loose connections, look for the obvious, that's what maintenance all about. To eliminate problems before they arise. Marks now has a 316 ball allen long shank. He's reaching in to get there's two 316 coarse thread bolts, holding the radio on each side into the interfering bracket. Mark will remove his two bolts. Just taking a quick look around while Mark gets those other bolts out. It's all part of maintenance. Bunch of objects we can identify with while this is open your cigarette lighter, your clutch cable. We'll get into this later. I hope we can show removing replacing this clutch cable, indicator lights, dash lights. They're all accessible with the outer fairing off and the outer fairing really is only seven torx fasteners. The thing is to be careful don't be afraid. I'm gonna remove my toe. Once you get a bolt loose, remove the ratchet, you don't have a lot of swinging weight in your hand. Work with just the extension that's why we like long shank tools. For areas that are that are tough to get into it makes it a lot easier. They leave you a little access hole here. Again use your use common sense. Use your head use your buddy's help. If he's got a better idea always be open for better ideas when you're working on something that's new, or something you haven't done time and time again. Again I'd like to note that practice doesn't make perfect you can do the same thing incorrectly over and over. And basically just get frustrated perfect practice makes perfect if you do it correctly time and time again things get easier. You see no one's really fighting, no one's really yelling. The radio unit's out the faring now it suddenly doesn't seem as hideous I'm not as afraid myself. Oh we've got a nice clear shot this is the fork stem adjusting knot I'm gonna take a moment at this point. Due to the fact that all the bolts are out. The lower chrome kicker panel can also be removed. It's held by these are the two lower obscure bolts that run through the interfering, capture, the chrome housing and thread into the outer fairing. Grease fitting regular maintenance you don't have to remove the outer fairing or all it is to access the grease fitting that fitting when the motorcycle is to full right lock. You have a good view to get a grease gun on that is regular maintenance. Basically, 2500 services even every thousand miles on bikes that are used you know over the road as a touring model. The next step I'd like to just take a look around and check grounds check connections. You can see your handlebars although they're out of view when the fairings are together. They come right out into view once these parts are removed.