FMH LIVE: Powder Coating Prep and Installing Fork Boots & Seals

Hey guys, welcome to this month's "Fix My Hog" live event. I'm Tommy Clutch Creal contributing editor with "Fix my Hog". First and foremost, big shout out to Haynes Manuals. They've been partnering with us over the past couple of live events and a few a couple more. Make sure you guys go out and pick up a Haynes manual a climber manual for your projects on hand your current bike, whatever it may be. These guys are industry-leading with their manuals so we're super stoked to be working with those guys and partner with them. So thanks for Haynes Manuals for doing that. A few things about today's live event. I appreciate you guys being patient yesterday. We had some issues with the cold here in the Midwest. It's known that do that. So thanks for being patient but today we're gonna be going through some of the powder-coat things what we're doing on the Sportster Build and going through a front-end rebuild on it. So those are the two areas that we're gonna be going through and make sure you drop in on that chat box right there. If you've got any questions along the way if I'm not making, if you want me to go a little bit more detailed in some of this, we got an hour so I'm trying to get as much in as we can without not covering as much. So, and then also, if you guys have a chance we like you to share your hog with us. You can see below on the chat box right here, on fixingmyhog.com. share your hog with us. We'll put some exposure out for ya and you can be bragging about it with your buddies and stuff. So, and then also a lot more stuff. So I'll make sure you check that out, click that through and share that puppy, share that iron maiden ears. All right, Zach. Zach's my zoom expert back here so we're gonna get going with it. So a few things that we had going on recently we've been taking a Sportster 2000 Sportster that we bought used making a few videos that you're gonna see in the upcoming months and turn it into a cafe racer. Now I'm super stoked about this one because it's not your ordinary service and repair. We actually did is we took a used bike with I think 30,000 on it right, somewhere around there. That's an insane miles on it. We tore it down and we to truly just demolished the original and traditional look of it and made it one badass bike. So some of the powder coating items here I'm gonna show you, are gonna be going on that bike. It's actually right there we had to cover it up 'cause we don't want you to see everything of it right now. But the reason why we went with powder coat on this one for budget reasons a little bit more cost-effective than going with paint. Now, paint can go anywhere from a couple thousand up to $10,000 and even over that from our experience on the elaborated paint jobs and all that powder coating is a little bit cheaper. The good part about powder coating too is that it's a lot more durable than paint. So say you're working on your bike. You forget to lay a couple of rags down. A tool slips or a part slips it goes down a notch and you're not gonna get that chip from paint from a, you know a couple of clear coats on there. You're typically not gonna see that much damage done to powder coat. And nowadays, unlike 10 years ago the colors have elaborated. What we have here is we have a headlight ring and this one's a black wrinkle for the bike. So it's actually a nice little finish on here. Come on, cameraman, get with it, buddy. And here's our front headlight on this. Now, this was chrome originally. And all they do with these components for powder coat, if you have a good powder coater which we've gone to the same guy for about 20 years now they will blast this all the way down to bare get any oils residue anything that might be abrasive to get in the powder on there. And then they go through and actually just heat this up and melt it on here. So there's electrodes that they put on they put a ground on one end of this and then they spray it with all the powder run it through the oven and it's good to go. So unlike a paint job too, turnaround time on these is super, super quick. So that's a good part about it too. But the most critical thing in going through, you know if you're going through the paint or powder coat stages with this is that preparation to get these out. And this is where I'm gonna take some time with you guys and go through some of these areas. We did get probably I don't know, 40 parts, 35 parts of this bike powder-coated in two different tones. We actually got a 60% gloss black on this, not a hundred percent. There's five different variations of black. There's 100% percent gloss black, 60% flat matte and then black wrinkle. So you really have the ability to match it but in preparation for this, as you can see right here the steering stem out of this bottom tree was blasted. And also the inside parts of this, I don't want to put my face in the backseat of a steer stem. The inside of the bottom trees where the four tubes slide through were cleaned. And some powder coaters what they do is they don't take the time to actually mask these things offer or clean them as well. And that's the most critical part because in during reassembly obviously there's a buildup of powder coat on here and in some tight fitment areas you're gonna have to take some down. For instance, with the headlight and the headlight mount. So they did the inner and the outer bracket right here. This isn't gonna fit directly in, I mean we can wedge it in we don't want the scarring or get into any major scrapes on there. So we'll take a fine piece of sandpaper get it down and get a nice tight fitment in there. Now what they could have done is actually just taped off the sides here but we prefer to do this in house rather than having to have them do that. So preparation for it makes sure that powder coater that you have on hand are gonna, ask a lot of questions with them. Make sure they're on the same page with you. On our top tree here another good thing we like about Buckley's operation is that on the threads you can see we're actually, they put bolts in here. So no powder or powder coat gets built up in there. If for instance, it does happen and it comes back to you all you need to do is tap this out and make sure those threads are clean. Time after time, we're still gonna go through all these components tap them out, dye out any threads that we see on some of the components, just to make sure there's no sand that's still leftover that's gonna prevent and possibly cause corrosion and not a great seal or torquing ability to those bolts of components as well. So make sure you take the time and kind of buzz right through the threads and take a look at that stuff as well. So top and bottom triple true that we got done on here. We went with that 60% and we always go through and test fit it. This one is a nice little fit right down. We weren't worried about the bushings on here. They're just gonna slide right in. There is no close gap that we need to worry about. And then our riser, same thing on here. See if you can notice right in the inside on the rises they did take that off because of again, once we put that top clamp on these risers and the bottom riser there and we did get the handlebars actually coated as well that powder coat will rub off and then allow it for to actually start slipping because you don't have that tight fitment anymore. So for the reason of taping that off you're guaranteed 99.9% not to have any issues with torquing that down as well. So it's pretty rad job these guys did on here as well. All these screws through where we're gonna be hiding some of the wires on the front-end those were tapped out. So I'm getting too on this is making sure that you guys are getting a good powder coat around this and making sure you don't have any runs. I've seen a couple of guys bring bikes into the shop and we see runs from powder-coat. And all that is is because they're hanging it the wrong way and just dried unevenly. So, you know powder coating is a good option and cost affordable but make sure you're getting it done the right way. Now, best example I can give you out of all these parts. And we've got a ton on the shelf over there is actually our brake disc. So these were OEM brake disc on here. And as you can see, they go around and they tape that all off right there. So your inner is that wrinkle black and even better I want you to try getting on this one, buddy outside of the disc right here, it's also black wrinkle. That's the details that we love on our bikes but this will never get hit because our brake-pads are running right here on the rotors. Obviously they're drilled for heat distribution. So that's a nice little extra feature. So he's very thorough about that. That's pretty wicked, right? That's good stuff. So two other things I want to show you with this, the powder coat. Man, I really want to show you this we see if we can talk Dennis into running the show with one of those bars put together. Our peg mounts so on these peg mounts these are gonna be for our forward. No, sorry, they're gonna be for our rear pegs. On here you can see the buildup in the powder coat. We're actually gonna sand these down a little bit so we can still shim it. I've seen guys and heard guys say you don't need to shim it after the powder coat because it's a tight fitment. That's not the right way to do it. Reason being is that again this is gonna wear down rubbed down you're gonna see some flakes of the powder coat come off and then again it's gonna start giving you too much liberty and trying to adjust that. So make sure you're sanding that down nicely and making sure it's prepped right to put on the bike. And then there also any areas on the inside that you may need as well, get those out. And the last part is, so we go through we've got a couple of different components. I don't want to let all the worms out of the can here on what we did but we did a couple of different components on those bolts and fasteners holding those components down. We actually got those done as well. So a good example of that is we have two Allens right here what they do on these, they tape off the threads excuse me. And they blast right through them. Now I know a lot of people probably think you know, once you put that Allen in there it's gonna start ripping right through that. Not necessarily we've had good results with that. After putting these fasteners in and even torquing them down at higher torques foot-pounds that they don't still flake and withhold it. So, it keeps its look and appearance unlike paint. I've seen guys spray paint it excuse me. And then that'll come off really, really quick. Even if you're putting clear coat on it as well. So, faster as you can get done as well. This is one of our little guys for the riser. Guys, do you see that? Yeah. Nice. And then also all the way down to our fasteners too. Oh sorry our split washer and flat washer. So a lot of these components that we have we're gonna be putting this on it. It looks pretty, pretty, pretty badass on it. Cool. So any other questions you guys have on powder coat? I don't want to spend too much time on it but kind of in a nutshell, you know, we excuse me, went through this just because it was more along the lines of our budget. We liked the look and the options that we had to go forward with it. The front-end here were OEM fork boots which I'm gonna get over to in a minute and show you guys. But we had those powder-coated as well. And it gives us a nice look. So for our application powder coating was the right way to go. And you guys are gonna be totally stoked with seeing this bike at the end. Jaw-dropping bike for what within a couple of months. Oh yeah? Dennis has let me, so. Yeah, we'll keep the rest of it so our buddy Nate Beck built these bars for us up in Minnesota and he would still see this as a work in progress here. Man, I got something in my throat. PM hooked us up with these controls right here. We had Roland Sands hook us up with these grips. Now these were powder-coated and you can see on the inside right here let's try to zoom in on this on, buddy. You can, you can see some grooves from our hand controls on getting those on. The reason why I put the blue tape on is for two reasons with powder coating. And this is final installation I highly recommend using blue tape first. And if you're looking at something that's gonna be very difficult to apply you can put duct tape over it if it's gonna run into extra or potential other hazards. But I actually stopped it from going anywhere else. So once we initially measured out where the grips going, a spacer, a porch and then also our control right here. We lock this down then we put the blue masking tape that helps us not go any further and scratch the bars anymore. And then it keeps it nice and clean, but also what we had to do to hide all these wires is had to go and drill extra holes right here. So this hole was drilled for our right control wires. And out of this side, we actually have eight wires running through here. And the final result looks like the left side. We had nine wires running through there and you can't see a single wire right through there. And then we popped them out here. Now these are heat shrink on here. This is actually wires I routed through to help me pull the looms through. And then we're gonna be putting in a nice little gloss black cover right over it. But one thing I want to make sure that you guys understand is that what that buildup on powder coat you can take this material down just a little bit just to make sure that you're still getting a nice little grip on there with your hand controls or your perch but just make sure you're taking your time through this because once you scratch this powder coat there's no going back. And it leaves a higher density and a higher amount of clearance that you have to take down. So the reason why you do see that and we're okay with it is because when you're riding on the grip we're actually gonna take some sandpaper, smooth that all out eventually once we're done getting all our hand controls set up and then once they're ready for installation on the bike we're gonna take all the blue masking tape off. But a blue masking tape is next up on the chrome. And obviously these are heavy set and expensive set of controls but this will be one wicked set up. What do you think, Zach, you like it? Mm-hmm. That sounded convincing. What? That sounded convincing, come on, man. You know I love my wiring. You love your wiring. So in terms of powder coat guys that's all I really got right now. Bars are usually typically the hardest ones if you're working with Derby covers, primary covers, and definitely anything on the engine you just want to be careful and make sure you're prepping it correctly. Put masking tape over it, taking your time putting some rags down over other components and definitely exhaust if you got those ceramic coated, just take a deep breath slow down, have some fun with your project and to move forward with that you'll be kosher. So any questions drop them in that chat box guys and we'll get going on that. Now here's the part you've all probably been waiting for that's the front-end rebuild and the Sportster that we got here. So on this build like I said earlier we got the bottom boots 60% gloss black on here. I re-installed them so I can show you guys a full disassembly of this. I did drain out the oil that was left in here. And unfortunately, because of the miles on this and I think the guy that did take care of it, I got a little bit of a fib from him talking about his maintenance on here because there wasn't much oil that actually came out. I think it was half of what it should have been. So here's what we're looking at, four tubes obviously some of you guys do know this but for the guys that don't know, this is our top tree. Our front tube actually slips through sits right there on top that's why it's critical with powder coat to make sure that that's all taken out. I'm making you do your job today, buddy. Yeah, I know. Bottom tree is gonna be right down there as well. When reinstalling these or taking them off you can add some WD 40 on there, help it slide out without leaving any scarring or marks on here. That's the hardest part is not to try pulling it directly out through the trees because that's when you can actually just tilt them enough or get enough of an angle where it's just gonna leave a nice little gouge in there. So put some WD on and then make sure once you get it off, wipe it down big time. Because once you get that WD on here, it's slipperier than goose shit half the time and you're just gonna be slipping all around the place, so. Just assembly on these guys. First thing that we're gonna do is take off our boot and in order to do so we have a dampener that comes right through with an oil spacer on the bottom. And then there's an Allen with a crush washer going directly through. So on the bottom end right here can you see that Allen in there? excuse me. You're gonna get the Allen right in there we are gonna take an Allen key pull that right out. Typically these aren't that tough. Make sure you have the right size in here. We've seen these stripped out left and right. And anytime you take these out kind of rule of thumb for everybody is replacing this crush washer it's like a break fitting crush washer and it's copper. So these are my rule of thumb in the shop is that once it comes off and it break that crush and that tension to replace it some people so you can use it two or three times you can probably escape with that. I just don't like to take any risks in running in with that. So this little guy makes sure you replace you're gonna see me re-install this for the reason that this is actually brand new. And I just put this thing together for you. So the top I did disassemble this retaining clip that's on the top right here. And it will look like that when it's all together you're gonna pull your dust cap off right there. And then your oil seal, your dust cover right here. That's gonna come off and then your clip and on reassembly you'll see how we get this all back together. And then what we have right here is we have our seal. So two ways of doing this, making sure this bottom island has done because you don't want to be trying to pull this apart and jamming around on this. Is that we're just gonna take it and go down like that. Four to four pulled out. And you can see here, here's our oil spacer at the bottom. Our dampener right here. We've got our upper bushing. We've got our lower bushings. Our spacer and then our seal. Now, anytime these come apart definitely get new seals, get new get everything to rebuild kit for this because these are just typically one of the first things to go. Definitely if you're seeing leaking going up and down your tube as you're riding but this seal is you can get close up on that. It looks like a mouse chewed right through that sucker. So this one is actually gonna be junk. And on this fork boom I want to show you this with the powder coat you can see on the top end right here, that was all blasted, kept down and then on the inside as well for that bushing and to sit correctly in there and then the seal and then the retaining clip. So even more important to make sure that you're getting a good powder coater. I know I won't shut up about getting a good powder coater but makes a huge difference. All right, so we're gonna slide these two bushings off. You don't necessarily need to just use it to work with. Now the top, this is there's a preload in here with our spring and I highly recommend taking your time on this just because you can get serious injury with it. And they really can shoot across the room on here as well. I'm just gonna wipe this down because some of this oil got around everywhere. I did crack this loose so our tension tools that you can use to get this off. A lot of times what we do is we put it in the vice with aluminum jaws and then a rag around it as well. For the reason that we're not gonna scar or mark up any of this chrome on here or if you had these you know anodized or something then that would be different. So, I had this done hand tight, which you always want to do hand over the top, angle it away from anything, any bike, any object, any person, sometimes lying. You know that Zack just to keep him on his toes in the shop. Better than the bike, that's what I always say hurt yourself for the bike. So all I'ma do is I'ma push against this And here's our four cap with the oil seal the oil ring right there on top. Here's our spring. And then our damper. With the spring as well. Now on the top here these are the piston rings. These help seal on our front suspension right here. You always want to replace these as well. We'll be doing that today. Excuse me, with the new ones. You may have two have them. A lot of times you will see two of these piston seals right here. This one only has one after you've taken it off checking it out for any cracks and any sealing issues that you may see or if it's even completely broken off. That's one big area to pay attention to. All right, next thing, we're gonna do the second one. I'm good, we good with this one thanks, bud. The overload is simply the dust seals. Gotta make sure you're pulling that Allen out. I always put the tools away from any new powder coat or paint. So there is that Allen for us. I always like to try keeping these in order so that we know which area we're going through on these. And these will be a little bit harder to get off easier much, much harder than what you see me doing right now. Get the bottom of that, again, this, man. The seal is just beat up, another beat up one we can actually see some corrosion on it as well. What probably happened is they had a- Your not sure! Yeah, they probably had some water get in there and just sit in some residuals and just eat away at that rubber right there. Get that out of here, quickly. Bushings, I'm just gonna take a look and make sure the bottom bushing is good. On these we're actually not gonna change these bushings. These are still in pretty good condition believe it or not. If you do get a full rebuild kit definitely take a look at them and possibly change them out. But we had taken a look at these before. There's no cracks, there's no indentations. There's no missing material as well. So we're just gonna keep these guys on there. Again, the top. Get those loosened up a little bit. And these are probably some of the easiest here's our top again. Our spring, and then our damper as well. Now, keep in mind this process isn't too hard. The only difficult part is actually getting your fork legs off because you're taking your front wheel off, you're taking your funder off. If you're actually working with street glide, road glide, and just a bunch of cosmetic items on the front you're gonna have to take all that off just to get your forks off, so. Or even to get access to your trees back there. So that's the most time consuming part. This is typically pretty easy for us for you as well. All right, so we're gonna jump into the rebuild of this. You can see, I have this laid out right here our fork boots, here's our new seals, a new piston rings right here. These little guys it's gonna be difficult to show up put against my body. These are for our drain bolt at the bottom of the- Here we go, right at the bottom. So it's drain bolt right here. We actually replaced that already put the bolt back in so they can powder-coat over it. And it's a nice smooth look on there. So these are just extras for us and then new O-rings for the top tubes. So I'm just gonna refer to our Haynes manual. They've got a couple of different steps in here but we've done this for about 15 years where we're in good shape. All right, first thing that we're gonna do we're just gonna clean off some of these components. I'm gonna take off some of these oil spots and then we're gonna change out on our dampeners, the piston rings. It's always a good idea after getting parts, you know kind of take it apart, look through it see if you see anything that shouldn't be in there. By the engine components, same way see if you see metal shavings. Be critical to let you know what's going on on the bike. So what we're gonna do on this one, we're gonna take one end and pop that seal right, off like so. Get rid of that one and then again, we're just gonna take the top right here move it over, work our way down, pop that off. I'm gonna clean this out, make sure we don't have any access to that in there. No, it didn't break. And then we're gonna pop in our new one. What we gonna do we start at one edge, put that on the lip delicately and lightly pull that over this can be snapped pretty quickly. And like so, that's done. I'll grab another one. Pop on the front. Brand new, good to go, buddy. All right, so there's those two. Now we're gonna move on to our top forks and I'm gonna capture it here. I'm just gonna take a pic go through and just work its way around and I'll just pop that right off. Do it with our second one. And these are actually looking good shape. So we probably could have got away with keeping these but I'm just gonna change them out anyways since we have new ones, one less thing to repair in the future. And then for installation, fold it right over and make sure it's seated all the way through in there. Looking good, and second one. And we're good to go. So now we have pretty much everything ready to go for reassembling here. We're making some good time on this one, not bad. All right, reassembly, first thing that we're gonna do we're gonna drop our dampener in. We want to put our, jeez! Spring in first right here. And I hold it like this if you go directly down slightly that spring could just go right out without it. So make sure you're keeping it down there and slowly work its way down so it's seated correctly. You can also use the other dampener and then just pull it a little bit make sure you have some tension on there. And we're good to go. Second thing that we're gonna do on here is we're gonna install our spring. Now, if you're putting a lowering kit together which kind of letting a little one go here we're gonna be actually putting one on together for this bike later on film. But these will be changed out. And sometimes you'll see guys that actually notch these down and put a PVC in there. And I'm not a big fan of the PVC. I think that corrodes and then eventually will work its way down after enough preload on there and enough even if you bottom them out so if you're putting one of those on there make sure you're looking at the metal spaces that are mostly bill it now on there but Burley makes a great brand great lowering kit as well. But this is gonna be a component that you do swap out and also your spacer. So on this one we don't have a spacer but that would be the area to go. I'm gonna put that all the way down and then we're gonna go on the front. Keeping pressure against this I'm gonna start threads. Let me do this sitting. Was doing this nicely earlier. It's my hands, all right. Yeah, there's quite a bit of tension and load against on here so take your time. And one thing earlier we actually had electrical tape all the way down the tube right here the reason Zach kind of looked over at me and said what were you doing the other night. Well, we were loosening these up and cracking them first there was enough oil on here that we couldn't actually get a grip even an oil filter wrench we weren't able to turn it. So what I do is I wrap it with black electrical tape right here, and I go in two different patterns. I can actually show you on this one but it'll give you some grip and some power to actually break that through. Let's crack it off. These are the true problems in the shop off camera it goes correctly and then no There we go. I'd say going through now we're gonna get these hand-tight and torque them later. once we get them on the bike. That way so we get them hand tight and then we torque them on the bike for the reason that our triple trees are actually holding these in tight we don't have to worry about putting them in a vice potentially kind of gouging these or anything and then go through and just rip right on them and make sure we're down to spec. Now we got that. There is still a ton of stuff on here. Now we're gonna put our bottom oil spacer on the bottom here. Make sure that's seated correctly. And then we're gonna slide one of our boots on. Again I'm holding it up this way just for the reason, there we go. That it doesn't slip out on us. Well, normally I've got the rule of thumb Zach's very familiar with this we don't start any bolts by a tool. We always start them in by hand. For the reason that you can't feel crossroad as well. If you're ratching something specifically if you're ever using a power tool for whatever reason on your bike, you can't feel that cross-threading but this is the one occasion where you can't get in there and start it by hand. So I do put this in by the Allen. But what I do is I just extremely close attention to see if there's any resistance on the Allen which there's not, super easy with one finger so we're in the clear. Again this could be something you too down know we just have been so accustomed to doing it all on the bike. Now that we've got that in I'm actually getting almost done here. Now we're gonna drop our bushing in. Here's the fun part. You see the bushing right in here, it's not seated. We have to get that seated. So there are a couple tools out there we have a few, Jim makes a couple, KNL makes a couple. This is the actual tool that we use. These are 39 millimeter front-ends. And what they look like are there's two halves like this. They go on top of the boot or on top of the tube. You can tell it's nice and snug and all it does, the outer halves come down to hold these even and it's gonna go down and pressure and push that down. Now you don't want to do that directly on the bushing. Drop your spacer on top of it. And that way you have that whole area. And you're gonna hear a noise when we get that all the way through. Letting us know it's been bottomed out. Got one half going in here And don't, I'd highly recommend not skipping corners on this one, this is a... I'm sure you can find some other way of trying to do this but this is probably the best tool to invest in if you're gonna be doing repair work in your garage or trying to take care of stuff. You're not gonna be damaging these bushings. All right, so we're just gonna go down and make sure it does fit. And we're not hitting the outside edge of our boot. Wanna I grab these halves, bring our spacer back out by eye, this is gonna be tough for you guys to see try getting in on that one, it's all the way seated down there now. There's no play all the way around. And those tools have made it to bottom out as well. So they'll bottom it out. But, perfect to us. Next step is gonna be putting the spacer on. And then dropping our seal down. Now notice there's two ways of seal does go. You have an open end here. More of a closed down here. Open-end is gonna go face down. Some of these actually have markings on them where it says up and down this one doesn't. We're gonna bring this one through. Now again, I am not a fan of going directly on these. So I'm gonna drop the space around this one. And then we're gonna drive this down so we can get our retaining clip on it. We still need a little bit more. These new ones can be stubborn sometimes. I just put this rubber band here so these halves don't fall off on me. There we go, that one looked like it worked. And we're almost there I'm gonna now drop right on it. Perfect, and now, take our retaining clip bring that down, make sure it gets in the groove. I'll take a flathead or a pic. Drop them in there. Notice I've got one finger over the top right here just to make sure it doesn't spring out. Here we go. All right, seated all the way around. Actually let me make sure one more. Cool, and then we're gonna put our dust cap seal over. Make sure that's seated all the way. And now, our cover. Wallah! One fork tool down, and now we'll get to the next one. So again, it's not too difficult but at the same time take your time going all the way through this. All right. Get this on ready spring, dampener hold at an angle right here. And for you those asking about oil in this don't worry I didn't forget. So we do that a little bit later. All right, at the back in there. Just gonna rub this off one more time. Surprised that those went together for all bad they weren't coming off. Guys, when we took these things apart, they were brutal we had stuff coming apart on here and it was definitely sitting outside for a winter or something so when they go together that easy it's always a nice thing obviously for us. Yeah, Zach was bringing up some of the metal shavings on here. You know, we were when we were working on those bars the other night we always we're doing anything metal work even related to the bike or having to drill through some areas we always do it on a different bench when we're putting new parts together. Definitely for the reason that they can weasel their way into stuff too. And if you're actually cross-threading the top on these you'll see that. So make sure you're keeping a good work bench area clean, organized, as you can see that we kind of prep this one nices and normally how we work with things eliminate the damage that can be done but make sure you're working around even if you have limited space, you know, go in the kitchen and I'm sure your wife would get pissed but keep it away. All right, now we're gonna take on the back put our seal on the front of our dampener. Push this one down get on here the bottom here. Guys, I don't feel this actually threading so what I'm gonna do is actually turn this a little bit. Make sure we're catching right there. And still doesn't seem so. So just to play it safe we're gonna pull this thing back out. Let's see if this accidentally just popped off on us. And when you're taking these off try not to go up and down side to side on it twist like this and just pull evenly away. Help with longevity and sealing with those bushings. I just want to, we're just gonna double check to make sure. Yeah, it's a nice little mate right there. All right, let's get this back in. I'll give this thing another shot. We prepped this too. Never goes as easy when we're doing this for you guys. Probably better though. I can see kind of the stumbling blocks. Again, we're still not getting a nice little fit. So I'm not pushing down actually I'm just twisting here. Seeing if we can get that aligned. And this one just really isn't liking us today. So there are reasons, I mean, this could be off center tan. And I hate to ever stick something similar to a flathead in there. Just because of getting on those threads. I can actually see it off center right here. So what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna actually take a pick knowing that we're not gonna damage those threads at all and try moving that thing down. pain, man. We're just starting with enough depth on that one. Oh Dennis tool. Yeah, it's loose out here. So it's not trying to work with us right now. All right, I think we got it. Let's see if this is gonna work for us. Try not to move this right now and hold tension against the boot, keeping that space and place where we had it, where it doesn't slip out again. Perfect, did the job It's snug and like I said, we'll torque that down later. All right, we're gonna put our bushing on upper bushing, oh sorry lower bushing. Put our spacer down so we don't damage that. We're getting our driver tool Perfect, straight down. Bring that back out. I want to take a double check, spin this around making sure everything's seated correctly. We're looking good. You shouldn't have any side to side play in here as well, that should be one snug fit. All right again, we're gonna take then the spacer and then we're gonna take our seal make sure we're on the right side down. Get that thing started as far as we can. These are nice seals they don't wanna budge some areas a little bit off center. All right, we're almost there. Good deal. All right, so now that we've got that last part we're gonna put on our retaining clip. Yeah. Retaining clip then we're gonna put our dust cover cap on. Again you're gonna put the open sides down force it in from the back. Delicately with a flathead so you're not scarring the boot. Keep holding, keeping your fingers over this as well. Come on buddy, there we go. Perfect, good and just go down and make sure it is sitting in there correctly. You can see on there sits right on the outside of that lip or in the inside of that lip. And I keep holding my finger over it just for reasons we've had some of these that are already seated before and pop out. I'm not a big fan of clips all together. Even our Jesus clips 'cause that can take Jesus to find them if you lose them. Yeah, gonna sit that down. Decides to be a little bit more stubborn for us. All right, so that's a complete rebuild on these guys. At this step, what we could do and we're gonna be actually taking these apart again. So I'm not gonna be doing is actually taking our fork oil and putting in the correct amount for it. So there's two different ways to measure how much fork oil referred to your Haynes manual for that one. Those either a dry or a wet application for this one. If it was wet, it would be nine ounces. If it's dry, it's 10.2 ounces. And the reason for that is if you're taking this apart and draining it without cleaning the inside that's a wet application for a dry one, you're actually taking this all the way apart. Cleaning the inside, having no residue or leftover oil in there and then trying to fill it all the way up. So make sure you're checking the right one on there and different kind of weights that you can use. Seven, 10, 15, it goes way on up depending on the weight of the rider. Also the type of riding that you do use or do do, I should say, not use. And you know, we're typically around seven to 10 on that more of a lighter you get more action in the front-end rather than being are lot stiffer. So kind of go through and map that out see what your manual does recommend for you on there. And you'll be good to go, but it's as simple as that. And again, when you're going through and if you are getting ready to disassemble the drain bolt right down here or the drain screw pull that thing right out get as much as you can obviously there's gonna be some leftover stuff in there at this point. Get them all the way up in those trees and torque down your bottom Allen before you put that rear tire on and then torque down your top four cap as well when you have it in there so you have some more leverage to hold that around. Now we've got five minutes. Let me check some questions with you guys. See if you guys have anything you wanted to go over differently. I'm gonna zip right through this live event. Hopefully you guys got something out of this one. This is, we see this a lot of people trying to rebuild the front-ends and running into some issues because you have to year how that likes to make some changes. Glad our Internet's working. All right we don't have too many questions guys but I just want to reiterate one more time with you. You know, pulling these things apart is gonna be probably the hardest thing you do. And once you get to remove from the bike as well those bushings are a pain in the rear to pull out some times. So just try and make sure you're doing it evenly rather than back and forth and wearing those bushings out even further if you're planning on reusing them again also. Making sure you're putting your seals into spaces in the right spot making sure that retaining clip is seated pretty well, and not gonna pop out on you and just going through, I mean I recommend obviously always changing your seals and your old rings at any point of taking the thing apart. You never know when you're gonna get a rip or a tear that will allow some oil to get through. It's you're helping your ride with many more miles ahead on it as well. And then making sure you're not gonna be constantly in the garage trying to fix this stuff up too. So, and if you're getting on a part and you're trying to do some winter I know here in the Midwest it's our prime time for getting things redone, you know take a look into powder coating. And there's great guys here in the Midwest. I'm sure by you, but do your due diligence with them. Talk with them, see how they see some of their products that they do use and the type of material the powder coat material that they do use, the manufacturer. Those things make a big difference. So, that's a cheap and affordable quick thing to get through on the winter and give your bike a new look and not break the bank and get your your wife or wife off this stitcher. I'm on a boat. Two of top questions I guess. Yeah Sent the email. Oh, did she? Yeah. Let's see what we got. We got two questions. Seymour, Michael, oh yeah Michael Seymour. I hit starter button gas drips out rear exhaust port plugs rear exhaust port plugs. And, maybe out of the rear exhaust port in the plugs maybe, oh, plugs are fouled on my 2000 Street Glide. I think what you're running into. Let's see, I hit my starter so you have some kind of gasket blown somewhere on your top end or your rocker area. Actually probably not your rocker area but you're more looking at something in your cylinder or your head. I'd check those, obviously there's many, many reasons plugs can file based on you know, carburetted units or EFI units. And those things are carburetted units. But typically when we're seeing that, it's a... it's always a gaskets of some sort. And if you're hitting it, I don't know if your bikes starting or not, or if your plugs are following over and over after putting new ones in, that would make a difference in helping me try to diagnose it here for your pal, but there's many options. So I would do a compression test and see what your compression is on your cylinders and refer to your Haynes manual for that one see what you should be getting and then also go through and if it's just in your rear it makes it a little bit easier. So check your front, check your rear and see, compare those to one another right off that. And then obviously I'm sure you already did but change those plugs out and see if it's just a reoccurring issue, but you have some kind of leakage go into that rear exhaust and that's making it pop out. So there's something sitting in your cylinder forcing its way out the rear pipe right there. Hopefully that helps. That helps, Zach, help you Zach? All right, Michael. Here I have a Harley Alto Classic. I need to know where the turn signal security module is, TSSM location is in the bike. Also, if you have a picture of that, that would be great. Austin see if he has a picture. I don't have one right here on my phone. Typically located from a it's a connector on the left side in the back. You'll see it towards the battery as well. And if you're going after those, I wonder what happened. Shoot an email or a request and let us know what happened on that. And I can help you diagnose a little bit further away or you're trying to locate if it's something that fouled out on there, if you're trying to replace it just for other reasons or any aftermarket stuff as well. So more information when you guys are, you know sending questions and we love this kind of stuff and myself and the other contributing editors can help help you you know, a lot quicker. So make sure just put as much information you can in there. And hopefully we're gonna get those answers that you guys need. Thanks again, the Haynes manuals for partnering up with us on this live event and all the past ones and the future ones. We appreciate it, make sure you guys grab your Haynes Manual or Climber manual. I'll tell you what to be honest and I'm sure Dennis wants closes yours I've never been a huge manual guy for many years 'cause I was a ground up builder and fabrication guys. But I'm now kind of seeing their manuals online and also here in print it makes things a lot, lot easier and a lot more efficient and Zack can actually even do it too. So thanks for joining us this month. We'll see you next month for another live event and any questions, anything make sure you share your hog on with us on Instagram and keep asking those questions. Let us man, let us know if you guys want to see some other videos as well. Guys, have a great weekend.