FMH LIVE: Sportster Front End Removal and Replacement

Let's rock, hey guys, welcome to this month's live event. I'm Tommy Creo contributing editor with fixed my hog. As many of you may know. Today we're gonna be walking through this 2010 Sportster. We're gonna do this is mostly a demonstration for you guys to get a feel for, how to properly remove a lot of these components. And we're gonna get to reinstalling the major components. Might not get around to getting some of the paint and the tins on, but that's pretty self-explanatory. And I'll touch, a quick bit on that as we go along here. So this is a 2010 sports, or like I said this is something that, we did a few upgrades with the crash bar, blacked it out in many many different ways that it's sissy Barsi blah, blah, blah. So we're gonna be a, there might be a few things that are different than maybe your stock's set up, but we'll, touch on those components as well. Before we get rolling on this guy, I wanna mention check out the chat box that you should see right there on the live event page. And if you've got any questions, as we go along wanna know how to do something or why I did it make sure you just plug it right in there I'll make sure to address it as best I can. And then also right below that you'll see that there's a free downloadable video for a Harley error codes. Make sure you check that out and you can't beat free. So check that out. And lastly, as we go through I'm gonna reference a few points on here like rebuilding front ends, addressing handlebars bushings triple trees, and there's more depth videos on fixed my hog.com that you can check out as well and get a, full view of all that. So without furthermore, let's get rocking and rolling and ripping through, some tools here. So first thing, and any kind of project that we're doing the reason I'm standing back here is that I wanna prep the whole area that we're gonna be working on. So you can obviously see, I started by putting some kind of protection over the gas tank. We're gonna remove the seat and disconnect the battery because we're gonna be working with some electrical components on our handlebars and controls, including turn signals, headlights. And you always wanna make sure that you're disconnecting that, battery. So here's what we're gonna do. We're gonna get rolling and start taking the seat off and get moving from there. So this is a simple seat already cracked this bolt back here, cheated a little bit for you guys. So we can get the most of this live event. Pull this out. Remove the seat. And with any of these bolts just keep it right where you took it took it out of taking it out of. And that'll help you track them down as well on the way. If I can find the hole. On this Sportster battery is on this side what we're gonna do is just pull the main fuse. She comes out for us, walk around so you guys, so I can actually get this without, damage and stuff in here. Yeah, so we're gonna pull the main fuse And we are good to go. All right, we on this front are now zooming in on, this sucker. All right, so as you can see if this sports do we have a few little extra additions on here we have this detachable quick release front windshield. We're just gonna pop that off to start with. That's all the tools are already laid out. So I'm gonna pull both these off. I always like to crack all the bolts loose to begin with and then we can fully take them out And take your time as you're going through this. There's obviously not a rush to, get it done. The reason why we're taking these off first is I wanna remove anything that has potential of getting scratched or dinged up. That's gonna be in our way. So right after this, we'll make our way over to the front fender and then just work our way from the top down from there. Or if you choose, you can actually do it the opposite way. You can go from the front up but we are gonna go through some of those pinch bolts on here that make a big difference in making sure nothing's binding in your front end. These are pretty neat setups. If you're like windshields and a fan of those, these are it's a nice little Set up for that. Come on. All right. We got all four of these done. We're gonna remove them like, so. That's the one that I wanna be careful of. Place this to the side. And these are shoulder bolts, spacers in here so keep an eye on those. It's gonna be two different sizes as well. Since we are on it was gonna be two different sizes on these little guys. So make sure you're putting them in the correct area. One's larger one's gonna be in the bottom, and the smaller one's gonna be on the top of this application. I'm gonna put these bolts lame on out. All we're gonna do is I'm gonna pull the outside off. This spice, been rinsed quite a bit. So might have some resistance, which we do, and don't really the safest way to remove Chrome on any kind of area on the bike. Obviously not putting any kind of tool in there and trying to pry it off, just wiggle it back and forth in front back. And that'll usually crack whatever that maybe adhesive rust Loctite that may it mean it's way down. And that'll work through. Apparently this one doesn't just wanna come through. That's close enough. So what we're gonna do, I don't wanna waste time on getting those. We slide the forks out. We're just gonna slide these right through now that they're loose. As you can see, we loosen those all up. All right, now that we have the windshield off and we've got access to this entire area. The last piece I'm gonna take off is the fender Much easier when we've got all these tools laid out, much, much easier. Again so when I can already feel resistance on this bolt coming out, what we're gonna do when we re-install is we're gonna run a quick tap through. That's gonna take into that lock tight out of there and make sure we have a nice fit. So we're not gonna be potentially cross threading it. So pulling any kind of bolt out of the bike, take a peek and, also feel for that resistance or if it feels like a cross study and make sure you double check those areas on the bike as well. And obviously never, never use power tools. The biggest reason for that, like a cordless drill. As you see sometimes on TV shows, those guys whipping through is because you can't feel that if a bolt is cross-threading, and you are driving that fastener in, you have to take in consideration that that tool is not gonna let you know. So always use hand tools when you're doing this may be quicker, but to use a tool just to use your hand tools. And also you can see I put my hand right here behind the ratchet. I think most of the guys, including Zach over here and the cameras lost, some blood on their hands because of a slip ranch, but it's better than cracking into that Chrome and getting a nice gouge in there and spend a couple hundred bucks on doing that and screaming bloody murder itself. Getting to is take precautions just be safe when you're working on this, on your bike. All right, and then were any of the for the back end. Pull this one through. So I hope most of you guys are out there riding already. We'll be here in Chicago. We just got the good weather. So how's the riding season. A lot of times when you're working on projects like this and if you've seen any of our live events in the past I continue to stress using two people. It's just gonna be much easier on you. And, also less expensive if you make a soft mistake. So if you've got a buddy laying around doing nothing, come on over and help you out. More hands is better than none. Yeah, all of these bolts, they're pretty wicked. I can say we didn't install this front fender itself. However, we did probably use monster Loctite in there The green monster. All right, we're onto the last one. Now, since this is the last one we're gonna be trying at the same time to hold this fender, this is gonna be the worst bolt. At any point to during reassembly on this or even disassembly. If you're putting on a completely new front end see blue masking tape right here, hanging on here. We gave this stuff on the entire bike, just for the reason it's much easier to peel off that than fix a ding or a scratch. So tape it up. There's never too much tape. Stay away from duct tape though. He's a hefty residue. Man, so it's getting worse as we go. So this is definitely a hole that we're gonna run a retail. So almost, and it's not binding against the fender. So that tells me that those threads are pretty trashed lived their life. All right, thanks for hanging in with me guys. We're, almost there. All right, pull it through, and help with these tie downs. All right, front fender, looking spiderweb, pop that down over there. Yeah and even looking at this when I'm brushing off as actual metal so I can actually feel it. So these will be running a tap again, through those. For the moment, what we're gonna do is since threads mate, we're gonna put these right back where we took them out of those hole exact holes. So on this side, right here, what I did is I laid out the bolts and pattern of what, where we took them out of. I'm not gonna go too far into that one. That holds, pretty big. All right, so now there's many different ways of pulling your front end apart. If you're doing a full end rebuild where it's gonna be your triple trees, your fork tubes, your forks even your front tire risers or handlebars you can either work your way from the top down, which would involve bringing the handlebars off taking the headlamp off, turn signals off. And then removing your pinch bolts and forks. Or you can work your way from the bottom up. Now I prefer in this case, since we're gonna be pulling it all apart, I wanna get the tire off. And then the Fort tubes out of there. And then we can kind of work on this whole mess up here and sort that out. So with that being said I'm gonna crack this front tire loose on this side. Here's the axle nut. And on this side we have a pinch bolt. So what this pinch bolt actually does is after that axle goes through and we have it torque down then we tore down that pinch bolt, which then pinches on the axle as a secondary reinforcement to make sure that that axle doesn't spin and also back out as well. At first, whatever reason we had this nut come out then we'd be able to make sure at least we can pull over and without having him to wheelie to the next exit. So I'm gonna crack this one loose. What you're gonna do is you're gonna crack this loose while the pinch bolt is still fully tightened that we have more leverage and you don't need to put some type of tool right here through the handle pull this one out. And then on this side, we're gonna crack loose pinch. It's a 916th, not on this side and then 516 bolt on this side. Well, now we're working. All right, so we have, this is our pinch bolt that went right through obviously fallen it as a flat washer, split washer and then a normal nut, not a nylock. So I'm gonna put this back together. And, put it on over here. Now, if you have the ability to work on a lift and you have all the accessories, Blackjacks all that kind of stuff, you can see that I've set this up where our tie-downs aren't on our triple trees because those will be coming off. So what we did is we put it right off the crash bar right here, pull it down and then put two flat jacks for the reason is I wanna lift the bike up now. And that way we can pull that front tire out through the front vice and have the ability to still work on that front end. All right, so I'm gonna crack this loose. Okay, it's got a fatter tire in here. I'm just gonna raise this up. If you don't have air lift black jacks you can just put a simple Jack right under this on the ground and then work with that, a little bit more. Yeah, it's great just a little bit on the bottom. All right, now we have that. I'm just gonna all right these are still nice and tight. So keep them there. So now we're gonna remove the front tire. We did crack these a little bit loose. So I'm gonna get a rubber mallet for this. Obviously do not use a normal hammer. Metal on metal is never gonna leave a good impression. Literally, you can get some dings and scratches all the way through. Its what I like to do. Let's try to see if I can work this axle out by hand. Normally you can, that has some NICs on it. Put some pressure on this side and work through. Other times if you have last resort and you just can't get it through and you have a stubborn axle where we've had a rear axle that was seized in the bearings. You remember that bike and all the way through we actually had to heat it with oxy-acetylene to get it out. So there are times we're gonna find that but you can use an extension for a socket in here. Make sure you don't hit the threads, get right in front and push it through, which might be the case here. Or I'm just gonna use a T handle and see if I can push this one out. Here we go. Now, if you're using the same fork tube, sorry, fork boots and a wheel on your new setup in the front end make sure you keep an eye on where these spacers are. A lot of times we'll Mark them. So if we have more than two spaces we'll put a Mark on them to indicate if they're gonna the right or the left side of the bike. You can also just reference your brake side and put a B right over there. So I'm gonna keep an eye on these. I wanna make sure these fork tubes are still secure in there. All right, what'd you do with, with my other guy? All right, sorry guys. I'm looking for my head in here. That's right. Oh, right in front of my eyes, sitting here. It makes sure these are still tight because did crack these loose, all right. All right, so now that I have the axle loose I'm just gonna keep my hand right under here. Do you need to move this thing out? And every time I see it's loose and it binds up. So the way they work, relay that thing down. See if I can work one of these axles spacers out. Okay, and then on this air left, we just have a simple wheel vice in front where we can pop this thing out and just pull the tire out. So it's pretty convenient and nice. If you're doing quite a few repairs. All right We're gonna roll this out. You'll see that the brake caliber is still right there when I pull that off. But I wanna get all these together first. So keeping an eye on these, I'm just gonna put these directly in the axle where we took them off, and then put our flat washer and nut right back on here. Makes life so much easier if you're just putting these right back into place the efficient around for a couple of hours, looking for him. All right, so now that we have that loose we need to pop off that front brake caliber. This one with the eight pings that we installed on here. We actually put a bridge right here. So we're gonna have to remove this off the bottom STEM or the bottom triple tree allow us some Slack and then we'll pull that off. I think we can get right under you and now with this. Look at that, there has been a good day with bikes who'd been listening all right. All right, so this is just, one bolt coming through. Take your time bring this guy out. And that's gonna be, see that guy right there. Mad camera skills over there. Now with any kind of line you're gonna see me putting rags over here. I don't ever recommend letting lines, hang brake calibers hang off the handlebars. Turn signals, hang throttle cables, or any kind of wire and reason being is that time after time, a lot of these connectors will have wear and tear and the older, your bike is, you'll see this. But those you have the potential of running the risk of pins, pulling out, wires pulling out in places where you can't see, for instance if we were to let this entire loom hang and there was a little bit heavier a little heavier object on the other end. They may pull out brake calibers, same thing. You can tweak those threads. Maybe the bolt, is binding. So play it safe. If you're taking the stuff off it's better to take it all the way off from the frontline down to the bottom line, remove it and then, re-bleed your brakes and things like that. But for this application what I'm gonna do is just take these off and then just make sure that we're arresting them on places where we're not gonna scratch. So we're gonna use a, few rags here. Yeah, clear our workspace. So we got some room to work. Boy, it's hot in here. But it's cold. All right, so now we're gonna take off the front brake caliber, cracking both loose and then we'll pull them directly out. Keep in mind, keep a hand on this. Once he pulled that first bolt out it's gonna come loose at the top. Last thing you wanna do is get that nice looking room all scratched up. I have a front brake. Sometimes you'll see that there are longer bolts and shorter bolts on the front brake caliber. Could be just because of the way the booth set up spacing a lot of the, your street glides and roll glides now will have different sizes. Make sure they're going in the back, the, right hole. Otherwise, what they could do is bind and actually seize up your front end. I've seen that and same thing on swing arms. That's where I'm off, mostly, you've seen it. They'll actually make sure, they'll stop the swing arm, from moving. All right, as you can see, I've got the brake caliber. But right down on the left, there's no tension coming up. So I'm comfortable with leaving it right there. And then we're just gonna pull out this front tire. Choose that thing is beefy. All right, now we're making progress. We're moving on this one. Got something to drink. Next step in the removal of your front end. What we're gonna do is we're gonna take off the fork tubes. These are all one piece. We're gonna take off the pin. We're gonna loosen the pinch bolt here, and then we're gonna loosen this punch pinch bolt. What I recommend is just leave them in there. So crack them loose, take a couple spins one or two full turns, and that'll give you enough room for that thing to come out. Now, keep in mind a lot of times with some of these upgrades on the bike, and even with stock set up set there's gonna be additional components on your triple trees. So you can see that our turn signals right here, up here on the top triple tree. So that pinch bolt, we don't wanna pull all the way out otherwise that thing's gonna crash and burn for us. So now, I'm not a big fan of these tourists fasters and certainly on areas where we need a lot of, foot prones, because they have the tendency to strip very, very easily. And one thing I do wanna mention if you are using the same tubes and fork boots maybe just changing out the triple trees or risers or that setup. When you do pull this off before you loosen any bolts, mark the top of where your fork tube is that'll give you a guidance point reference point of where you originally had it. And make it much easier align in your, fork legs up when you're doing these reassembly. So take the time and just make a quick Mark on there Now, I'm gonna, Oh, this at the same time, you could see it started moving. I'm gonna turn the wheel so I have area. And then here is our stubborn little bracket. I'm gonna take this guy right out. And while you have these off make sure you give him a quick, clean, quick rubdown. Turn this guy over and do the same thing on this side. Top pinch bolt. And when we get to reassembly it is critical that you do this in a certain pattern. Otherwise you're gonna have a binding front end and you're gonna have parts failure before you even know it. So that is by far way more critical than the removal side. All right, and we should come out relatively easy. If you do have a signed, stay put if you do have your triple tree's getting chromed or even powder-coated. And these were obviously done, by Harley but sometimes powder coaters or Cromer's don't take in consideration tolerance or clearances. So you may need to go inside your fork tube entries right here and either run a quick piece of sandpaper through or deeper those and make sure you have the clearance to get them through. So we did that with a lot of our parts. When we build ground ups, we're gonna our powder actually tapes off and masks off. So we don't have to go through that for realignment. So if you're having trouble point is that could be why. All right now we're gonna pull the headlamp off and let's see what we're gonna rest this. We should have a connector for this guy right back here. Actually, we're gonna leave the headlamp on and that way we can keep through that one. All right, so now we're gonna move to the bars. What I'm gonna do with this, is I'm actually gonna take the actual purchase off. So we're gonna take the mask or the clutch purse off and the master cylinder perch and then also the control housings and the throttle that grip is glued on. That's an aftermarket one. And that way it's just gonna be a little bit easier for us to work with. So first off I'm gonna do is I'm gonna remove these cable clamps. These are just a little, just puts a little sex industry. A little bit more detail. And it helps to make sure your lines aren't binding binding at all. All right, sorry let me show you that. So that's the clamp right there for the clutch. And then we have our, for our throttle idle lines. Obviously, if you have a fly by wire you're not gonna have those. You're just gonna have them directly run through the bar typically. All right so now what I'm gonna do, I'm gonna take the top bolt out of our housing. And this is why I disconnected the batteries because we're working with electrical, even though we're not pulling any connectors or going through and soldering anything. I just always liked to pull that out just in case. So we're not working with any potential issues. All right, get that loosened up. Cool, all right, now I'm gonna take the, purchased off master cylinder or working with torque still. It's always toss me off. A lot of time street glades, road glides, you're gonna have allens up here. Work with forks or torque. You can disassemble piece by piece on here as well. But on here, if I'm doing this alone, like I am right now obviously I'm gonna pull this top bolt all the way out. And I'll make sure I don't drop anything. That's like a surgeon over here look at this. All right, does it help when you're looking at a light and looking black on black here with the black tip on the torque. Yeah always, if you're working over the bike like this it is critical that you have some kind of component down there blanket just to make sure you're not bumping anything. You can see I've got brace on everything. This front piece is gonna come out. We're gonna take our perch off. Now we can put our cylinder down rest assured. Why not, let's do it. So here's our whole setup. Here's our perch master cylinder reservoir or bridge right there. And the actual brake caliber. And like with anything else we've been doing, I'm gonna take the front piece that we had on there and just put it right back on Bolts, do mate. All right now we're gonna get some Slack on this side. Yes, you do wanna come off. All right, so what we're gonna actually do is flip these over. That way we get some more room for that front end. All right, throttle housing, idle lines. Normally we'd take individually these off in this case. So I wanna show you that install too. And if keep in mind, if you're putting on larger borrowers if you're going up in maybe a six inch or an eight inch or even a 10 inch with a Ping or a for your application, make sure you take into consideration the length of your lines. So for us, the idle lines, the throttle line and a clutch break, all that had to be extended. So that's gonna be another component. All right, we're gonna do the same thing on this side. Pull off the clutch birch, keep the lever attached. Almost forgot, make sure you guys are checking out our Instagram page and sharing your bike on there. You can submit a photo of your bike. It definitely try to put it out there. So if he wants some exposure, check that out. Take this guy off. I'm gonna rest it on this side. Cause I have double blankets and then I'm gonna pop it round. And we're gonna work on for the bottom. Of course it'd be that one bolt. And this is a bike that you can actually run the wires through. You can, if they're not pre drilled, you can drill them yourself we did that last month. So it's a nice little feature to clean it up. All right, keep these guys all over here. That would have been fatal. Guess what, I got Ryan out of that. All right, so now that we have majority of these done I'm gonna get this line loosened. I'm not comfortable with that. Let's get this over. All right, so for our triple trees here, what we have there is a STEM that runs all the way through either you have a nut on the bottom here, that's gonna be drove right through with the set screw in the back that makes sure that doesn't work its way out, similar to the pinch bolt on the front fork boots. This one, we just have a screw right here on the top and a pinch bolt. So I did crack that pinch bolt loose already. And then we're gonna pull off the top. How much time do we have, do we have enough to go through the bars too, no All right, so I'm gonna leave the bars on what we have right here is the speedometer and then our four bolts for our riser. So these are the only things holding our handlebars down right now. If you wanna see more in depth video on this make sure you check out the videos on the website, fixed my hog.com here. When we re-install, this is where are we gonna get around to the thread locker. And what type do you use? I, we joggle through either blue, which is a majority of the time we're using blue, just as another preventative. The fastener coming out or red and red would be an area that you really don't want ever to come loose unless you're doing a major haul. So that stem bolt would be one that we do at with. All right, so from this point, bottom triple tree. I'm a one man team. So I'm gonna try doing this pretty, carefully. All right, so top triple tree, bottom triple tree. So our bearing is already installed in here. It's a sealed timkin bearing. You'd notice that there's no dust cover. You're just gonna take your bottom triple tree. You're gonna push it directly through stem coming up, top triple tree back on. Or get through, and on the bottom can you see this pinch bolt right here? My big old eyes back at yuh. All right, so that's the pinch bolt I was talking about with the stem. What we're gonna do is we're going to, normally I'd have someone grab some Loctite. I'm gonna start this bolt, and we're gonna get some lock tight here. So I'm gonna use red lock tight on this one thread locker. This is gonna be interesting. Make sure you're you're watching here, boys. I got it. That's another area where you all that buddy. All right, so I put a dab at the bottom here. You see that? Okay, and we're gonna work our way through now. There's no need to take that entire faster whatever faster you're using input threadlocker all the way through it. Take it at the tip. And what happens is, as you start fascinating that and screwing it in, it's gonna work its way through those threads and then eventually dry out causing it to lock in place. So you don't need half a bottle for an axle nut or stemmed out like this. It's it's not needed. So this is the last time we're gonna be using this. This one, put that away. They notice I left this loose reason being is that we need to align those fork tubes back in there. So I'm just gonna get this snug to where we still play and able to move both sides. Makes it pretty impressive. That didn't go that wasn't yeah. Let me say that just. All right so, okay so that is tight. And you can see, we can still move both halves, top triple tree and bottom and triple tree here to get those things aligned. I, he was gonna be the fun part. So were gonna take this so I can stop kicking this. We're gonna take some WD 40. And of course that was the one thing. I'm gonna take a rag and we're gonna wipe this thing down before we install, it's gonna help. Number one loud to go in there a little bit easier. And number two, get any of these potential rust spots off. And make sure you take a look on which ones would you put it on the right side? Yeah hold on one second. Brake caliper mounting bolts will need to be see on the left side for this bike. So where are you gonna be put in on the right side. Well, we're just gonna take some WD. That's all we need. Cleaned it up. And then we're gonna slide it right through the bottom. And this is the area where I told you, if you made that Mark it'll come in handy right now. And now don't forget that we had our bracket. So we're gonna re-install these before we slide that all the way through or to move that top triple tree. And I always take a look to make sure all our wires are behind it and nothing got pointed up here. And through this. Line it up the Mark. All right, we're gonna keep that one, extension on here. And then tighten the top snug. Now I'm not gonna torque these down just yet until we get that other side down and make sure that lines up still. And then we'll torque them to spec. Make sure you reference your manual on that and see what your manufacturer's calling for on these, all right. All right again, we're gonna start the bottom and work our way through the top. Put that down. Get this guy right back on, all right. Where'd I put that one? Where'd you go, Oh, come here real quick. Would you just hold that with your arm? This is what you got it cool. Like I said, it's a little difficult with one man team. So, Look for a Mark, drop it down. And keep it snug. Now, since we don't have our triple tree all the way tight since we've got everything kind of put together right now this is where I use another person. I have them hold the bottom of the fork boots right here. I loosen these. Now that we have them in and then keep them in installed like that. And what we'll do is then we'll torque down the top of our stem nut right here, or bolt in this case and bring those triple trees in and then we're gonna go and then get all the pinch bolts done. Now, the reason for that is that if we actually went through right now and did all the pinch bolts torque those down, and then went to the triple tree we're gonna have a binding effect. And vice versa, if we were gonna do it another way. But what that'll do over time is it's gonna wear down on your bearings number one. Number two it's gonna evenly or deceivingly wear out your your fork tubes and then cause failure down the road. So that's the pattern that you wanna go through tore down the triple trees. And then from there, you'll go, we'll get to all the pinch bolts and get those torches down. Oh, lucky, ll right, that's cool, let's do that. All right, I'm gonna use Zack on this one. If we can just, if you can pop over in a good view right there. You don't have to show them your face if you don't wanna. All right, so we're gonna, pop these loose again. They're gonna move, which is fine. We just wanna keep him on both sides that we'd go. And you Could see why it's easier with, the helper. All right, now I'm gonna take this through. Pull out the torque, pork was our being we didn't put that went out did we us on an organized on this one. All right, since we're gonna be going right back through this we're just gonna take this one down. So it's snug for your reference. I don't wanna waste your time on this. All right, so now that we've got that down, we're gonna go through redo our alignment here, where we at? Down just a 10 right there. Cool, one more. Yeah, we got that set. And then now they're show up on this one. All right. Good? Good, thank you, sir. And then now that we have that stem both already torn down, pinch bolts, down to spec. We're gonna go through and then there's gonna be this last one right here. That's gonna go right on the stem. And that's it with your front end, with the forks. I should say We're gonna rock and roll. All right so since we don't have the fender and all that stuff on I'm gonna actually tighten down this headlamp. So we don't have to worry about Nicanor grazing anything. There we are. So line this up. Sometimes you have a dollar in here that actually lines up for you. And that's gonna be down tore down to spec. On that, everything's tightened up and we're good to go there. All right, let me get the most important part. How other then just getting that torque sequence put together correctly is gonna be putting on that front tire. Now, if you were putting a newer tire on so obviously we've got a little bit wider tire more of a tougher look on this one. You wanna take into effect that you're gonna maybe need a spacer for your brake bracket and pushing that caliber off to meet that wheel. And also, the spacing is gonna be different. So I'm gonna run you through just a typical spacing. One that we do with our front ends we're gonna put the wheel in there no brake caliber or anything in there. And then we're gonna take the axle without any spacers and run that through. Doesn't like my beard, Oh, I don't either. So there's a lot of NICs on this. What we're gonna be doing is putting our own NICs but I'm gonna wipe it off. So we don't get all over the bike. By the way these reflectors, some of you guys already know this so you can just pop these things right off. All it is a 3m adhesive on the other side. So they don't like to look at those and really wanna keep it blacked out a couple of things off. All right, so now we're just gonna take this all the way through, make sure, your axle, goes all the way through. Now what I'm feeling is something binding. So I am not gonna go any further, not gonna Trying to bang that through. Heavier tires are always fun to work with. All right, now we're gonna space this off. Now, everyone's got a preference and everyone's got their own way of doing this. And I'm gonna explain my route of doing this and been doing this for 15 years. So it's worked for a long time. I don't ever go off the side of the tire to the inside of the fork leg or the boot. A reason being is that you can have on the even where the applies could be different on your tire. So what I like to do is I take I like to take an area on, the rim or the hub and make sure that is intact. And if it's brand new, typically the machining job's gonna be good. And measure that off to the inside of the fork boot right there. This is good where this is a good place for a straight edge or ruler or anything. And I'm gonna eyeball this thing as best as possible. And again, making sure the is in there. I'm gonna hold this. I'll do it for you on this side first. We'll hold this against the fender bracket since that's my straight edge. And then I'm gonna go in to right to the top of my rim. Now that's showing one in an eighth, and then I'm gonna go right off the inside of this seal bearing and that showing, one inch exactly. Now I measure this just to make sure the tire is center. And then we'll go down to the axle and measure that. So that's the reason I am doing this. Again, we're gonna come on the side of the fender brackets right here. Yeah, we've got an inch. And then we're gonna take this right in on the inside. And we've got an inch. So with that inch on both sides, now we're not put in a if you're doing a Springer front end, you're gonna have to put a bracket off the axle with a linkage to make sure it doesn't spin on you as you're going. If you have an RPM gauge on there for some older models, maybe yes. There's, there's tons of stuff out there that can go on the axle. So I'll make sure that is on there as well when you're spacing this up because obviously that's gonna make, your measurements a little bit different but if you're running just a straight, single sided brake and a single hub, then it's gonna be pretty typically easy to measure that out. But make sure you are getting an accurate reading from that outside of that sealed bearing. If for whatever reason, you're not using sealed bearings and you're using Timken bearings, make sure that outer seal is pressed all the way in and go on the outside of that Timken bearing inside the seal. If some of you are looking at me in the camera, like what the hell did he just say, I will show you right now. So this is our Tempkin bearing. It goes into the race like this. It's obviously tapered. And this is the back area that you should be reading off of. It's similar to a fork seal. It's black and circular but it just seals all that grease in there. So make sure you're reading off that. And if you're looking to rebuild your front end before I forget, make sure you check out those videos because, that's a big deal to make sure that's done properly with dampeners and all your Springs, in clips. So, but back on task, front-end spacing that out. Make sure you have all that on there, make it pretty simple. Three things space off, just a secured and a consistent area on your wheel, and then make sure you've got everything on there and then triple check your work and make sure that that you're on target. So that's majority of the front end spacing breaking are broken down for you. And now since we've got our measurements already done we're just gonna pull this axle directly out put these spaces in and secure our front end. Now I'm gonna get NICs. And this is another area where people like we've seen like to feel like the whole bottle needs to be in use for one time, which it doesn't need to be. And all I'm doing, when we reassemble things and if they're used parts as we go through, we always clean them. It's much easier to clean them when you have them like this than trying to get your hand around all these obstacles and brake rotor and caliber. So something we do that makes life a little easier less headaches. All right, so now I'm gonna pop this guy back out. I'm not gonna pop this guy back out, geez. Thank you for working on that one. So what I'm doing on this side that you can't see is that you see those drill holes right there. I'm putting my T handle right through like that and I'm rocking it back and forth and pulling it at the same time. So I literally take it like this, make sure obviously it's not hitting that powder coat boot and work our way out this way. You don't ruin anything with the axle. You don't have to worry about pounding these threads in from the opposite side. So some of those hidden axles nowadays you see that You don't have any grip or area, to help support removing or installing that. So NIC is what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna start at the area that we're gonna be inserting. So it's gonna be right here. Just dab it on. And again, just for good measure, toss one in there. Now, as we put this through, it's gonna work. I like to spin these as we go through. So we evenly get that, NIC is out there. We're gonna see if we can do this Solo first. So I'm gonna take the actual space for this side put it on up the side, put it on in. Man, things never go this smooth. I got that, man, I know Kevin. As I'm doing this again, I'm twisting and turning And we're just getting bound up here. So I'm gonna take the. Now I don't know if you heard that but there's two different pitches. I'll show you again. Right knock it in. That higher pitches mean you. I do it one more time just 'cause I wanna hit it again. That higher pitch means you're bottomed out against that space or so this axle has a shoulder on it. Bottom in and out, making sure you're fully in there. Boom, we're good to go. Three is enough for today. We'll get off camera, I'll do it again. And then I'm gonna take blue Loctite and put blue loctite that on there. Yeah, where is the box? What you can do is you actually can tighten the pinch bolt a little bit to help torque this down. We're gonna run a little over guys just so you guys can get the, everything on this. Maybe the next hour at this Loctite doesn't come out. Okay, flat washer. Go take that on there. Again, take a peek at what your manufacturer is calling for torque spec on this. I'm gonna take the pinch bolt that we have. Insert that on this side, I'm gonna tighten it down. It was 916s and we are over on that. Well, I'm shooting a hundred on this size. Oh, where's there a socket. Now take this pinch bolt down. And then torque, our axle to spec. Make sure you have your wrench to do that. It's much easier. We put a socket on here. What we'll do is put a socket on here, torque it to spec. I'm just gonna get slugged for you guys right now. And then once you have your spacers all installed everything torqued down. I always like to spin the tire to make sure there is no binding. Everything looks good. The rotor is spinning freely and a good chance for you to make sure it's not warped as well. And then also check the lateral movement, take one from the bottom one from the top and push back and forth to see if you have any lateral movement between your tubes and effect you do then, right off the bat that your spacing isn't on. So, at the front end this is a majority of, what it all entails. It's kind of simple if you walk through it like we just did. And piece after piece and just making sure that you're just taking your time with measurements and torquing things down in sequence. So now what we'll end up doing off camera is reinstalling our uppers. So we'll put on the cylinder of the perch and then the throttle will move over and put on the clutch or sorry, master break. Then we'll put on the clutch and then the housings over there route the wires to make sure nothing's binding or kinking. And we will go through and put the fender on and then our detachable front windshield as well. And then as always, we do, we always go through and double and triple check all the bolts and fasteners and to make sure everything's aligned. So I think I'm sorry. I didn't get any of your questions. I wanna make sure we got into getting this done but I appreciate you guys tuning in for this month. Make sure you keep checking out the new videos that we're putting up on the website and we'll be back next next month with another video self. Thanks for, thanks for tuning in guys.