Custom Motorcycle Cables Measurement
Bob LaRosa & Mark DiPietroDescription
Something we commonly see at the shop are bikes that come in with cables that are the incorrect length. Most commonly, this is the aftermath of a handlebar change, where incorrect measurements were taken, or somebody just estimated what they thought was needed to complete the job.
Custom motorcycle cables measurement, throttle, clutch, and brake line lengths, are not only important for neat appearance but are vitally important for proper and safe function of the motorcycle. These cables are essential for moving and stopping the motorcycle – definitely important!
When it comes to changing handlebars, we always suggest holding off on ordering cables until the new bars can be mocked up on the motorcycle. Yes, the majority of the time a six inch over (stock) cable/wiring extension kit will work fine on a set of bars that are approximately six inches longer or taller than stock. The only way to be confident you are ordering what you ultimately need, or want to see you should be mocking up and performing a custom motorcycle cables measurement first.
This is especially important with some of the radically shaped bars available today. It is also very important to plan how you will be routing your cables and brake line. Use can your old cables to help you measure and plan your routing.
In this video, Bob shows us how he and Mark perform custom motorcycle cables measurement
They use a flexible length of wire that can be traced over an existing cable, or simply routed (like a cable) and then measured. If working alone, you can tape the wire at one end while you run your best path.
Remember, try routing your cables so that they are relaxed and flow naturally. Don’t force them into tight bends or tight spaces and always keep in mind that the cables need to flow with the movement of the handlebars.
Overall cable length or custom motorcycle cables measurements will vary amongst manufacturers. If uncertain, contact the manufacturer before placing your cable order so you receive exactly what you expect. Cables can not only be expensive and time consuming to install; they are essential for safe motorcycle operation. Certainly not something to take lightly.
Order the correct cables for your motorcycle. When completed, you will better appreciate both form and function on a job well planned.
Watch our Multi-hour Handlebar Project Here
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Hi, I'm Bob. LaRosa. Welcome to fix my hog. I'd like to take a moment and just go over one of my biggest pet peeves, miss lengthened cables, whether you go to a braided or you go to a clear coat braided or you're just doing a factory black replacement cable. If you happen to change bars, whatever the reason may be, there's no reason whatsoever that your cable should be extremely long or dangerously short. When I say dangerously short, you don't want a cable that's too short when you go left or right lock that it binds or kinks, especially on the clutch or the throttle and idle cable. What I'll typically do, I'll put the existing cable in its normal position and route it correctly. Even though it may come up short, going to the component in this case would be the throttle body on a throttle and idle cable setup. I use my flexible wire. I can either tuck it into the rubber adjuster cover boot or I can use a little bit of masking tape to just tape it into position and then I can chase the wire, my adjustable wire down the length of the throttle and idle cable and take the flexible wire right to where its final point of contact should be. I can hold it and then mark it with my tape from there. I can take the flexible wire, lay it out on a flat surface and I'll hold it in place. I like to use two magnets and I can get an exact measurement of what my new cable length should be. Yeah. Just a quick note, each manufacturer has a different definition of what overall cable length is. Some do include the elbows on the throttle and idle cable. Some do not. They're only measuring casing length. So be aware of what manufacturer you're purchasing from and what they consider overall length of the cable that you're purchasing. Again, you need to remember cables are critical. They control proper throttle function, clutch function and braking function, whether it be front brake line or rear. The same with the flexible wire applies to brake lines. You can physically take this flexible wire, attach it to the front brake line at the banjo bolt and then chase the path that you want the brake line to go right down to the caliper, lay the flexible wire out on a flat surface, get your final measurement and order correct length cables. The right way, the first time the same will apply with the clutch cable. Now, clutch cables can be a little bit tricky because out of the array of cables and lines on a motorcycle, the clutch cable typically travels the longest path. It'll leave the clutch perch, it'll wind up in front of or behind the bar cars, it'll make its way down the down tube, then cross over under the engine above the engine behind the regulator, depending on the path it takes into the clutch and cover. Make sure no matter what cable or line you're replacing. You check your final measurements at full right and full left lock. You don't want a cable to look very nice aesthetically, but then you turn to right lock and a clutch cable gets very tight, it can be dangerous. And chances are if the cable is too short or too long, not only won't it function correctly, but it'll work worse than the, the cable or line that you're trying to replace aesthetically when you take the extra time and to do a handlebar change or a front fork change or you're just replacing cables because of age or wear, make sure you spend the time to measure the length correctly. Of course, if it is a factory configured motorcycle and all you're doing is replacing the cable because it's worn or it got damaged. For some reason, you can always remove the stock cable, measure that cable and replace it with the same exact length. But if there are instances right from the factory where cables aren't routed the way you would prefer, let's say this clutch cable you opted to change the direction that it heads underneath the motorcycle, whether it be jumping it up above the engine case under the oil filter or removing it from that position and going down lower on the frame. Always take into account you need to add or subtract that additional length from your final cable measurement.
On front brake cable, do you consider full fork extension. Recently rolled stock bars forward (Almost vertical) from very laid-back position. When bike was put on frame Jack (Jack rolled under frame) & bike lifted, front fork fully extended with wheel off ground. At that point, front brake line straightened out with tension on both banjo bolts. Relieved tension on cable, then measured cable length allowing slack for routing. Should that be considered as full extension required for fork oil changes (Softail/Dynas) & wheel removal for tire change?
what is the stock length of the hydraulic clutch and ABS upper break cables on a 2017 road king standard thank you .
Outstanding video. Incidentally, that is a very intriguing "flexible wire", is that speedometer cable inner cable?