Installing a custom clutch cable on a Harley

With the cable re-installed into the uncover, before I re-install the cover on the end of the transmission, I'll take a quick moment, and inspect not only our slinger mechanism, but also the throwout bearing, which actuates clutch movement. Make sure they're in nice shape. If they're not replaced those two items. We removed the transmission dowel from the end cover, we'll now re-install it into the end of the transmission. It shouldn't take much to put it back in place. Make sure it's in the end of the transmission square and securely. I can then use a little Loctite hi-tack, on a few of the gasket surfaces. And I'll replace my end cover gasket with a Genuine James silicone beaded gasket. You'll notice the hi-tack holds it in place, so all the bolt holes are lined up. Mark can now hand me the end of the cable. You'll notice I returned the original mounting clamp, to its position. With the cable just about ready to re-install, I want to make note of the center adjuster, it's chrome from Barnett. They also supply a stock style accordion boot. If you live in harsh conditions or you ride in the elements may be year round, I would highly recommend reinstalling this boot. You may cover a nice chrome piece but it'll definitely save you on service when you go to loosen and readjust your clutch. I can now slide the cable up into the frame. And even though it is a black replacement style cable, use care when you're reinstalling it, you don't want to chaff any of the new black surface of the cable. With the cable just about in place, Mark can grab the other end. I can position the end cover onto the end of the transmission, making sure it's engaged into both locating dowels. I can then start my hardware into the end cover. I've used a little Klean N' Prime and a few drops of Blue Loctite. I'll get all six bolts started by hand, making sure I go through the cover, through the gasket and into the end of the transmission. I can then start to thread in, all six bolts. You'll have to make sure all six bolts are in and properly torqued before you adjust your clutch inside the derby cover or at the center adjuster on the cable. The bolts securely fastened. I can then torque them to their proper inch pound specification. Whenever you torque, use a cross or a star pattern, to make sure you draw the cover down evenly. With the cover torqued in place, I can now finish tightening, the cable into the cover. Don't over tighten it, it is a hollow bolt that the cable runs inside. You don't wanna fracture that threaded portion by over tightening this section of the cable. With the cover back on, the cable positioned where it was routed originally, I'll re-install my retaining clamp, behind the rear master cylinder reservoir, and I'll thread the bolt back in. I can clean my dipstick and prep it with a little Loctite thread sealant. This only helps the old ring seal the transmission fluid into the end cover. I'll make sure my transmission drain plug is back in the transmission. I'll fill the transmission with the proper amount of Spectro transmission lubricant, I'll re-install my dipstick. Starting the thread by hand I can then tighten it down to the cover, and torque it to its proper inch pound specification. With the end cover back on, the transmission filled, the dipstick replaced, the clutch properly adjusted, we've now completed installation of the Barnett performance black clutch cable. I'll take a moment, I'll re-install my slip on exhaust. I'll tighten the rear mounting bolt. I'll then tighten my factory torque exhaust clamp, to 60 foot pounds.