Harley Throttle Cable Adjustment

I get a little bit of lubricant on the rubber adjuster boots. You can get a touch of lubricate in the split of the switch housings. Back the stop screw completely off. Slide the rubber boots off of the adjusting mechanisms. Loosen both 3/8 nuts. Back the nuts completely to the end of the cable. Loosen the adjuster screws completely. So you have excessive free play in the throttle housing. This is going to be throttle cable readjustment. Pull close pull open cable. Your pull open cable will be the first cable you adjust. Take up the slack in the cable. Check throttle free movement. Make sure you get a good clear view at the throttle stop on the right side of the carburetor. You want it to just contact the throttle stop. We're working with the outer cable only. At this point we have complete contact with the throttle stop. We wanna adjust the inner cable. At this point, we'll turn that cable until we have nice free play in the handle. It should be a minimum of 1/16. With that process completed, we're gonna come in and lock the pull close cable. Nice and snug. I'm gonna do the same procedure with the pull open cable. Run the locker nut up into the adjuster piece. This assembly is typical with the cable. Make sure they're snug. This procedure is typical with your clutch cable. Re-slide the boots over. Pull close, pull open. Check for proper free play in the throttle handle. Check for full open and nice snapshot. At this point, check your throttle stop screw. Hold the throttle half position, lock your stop screw. The screws should hold the throttle in the position that you rendered it. It should snap back freely when the throttle screw is released. This is not cruise control, it's made to let the motorcycle warm up without using your enrichener circuit. Another part of the carburetor service is to clean or replace the air cleaner element. Allen style bolt on the outer part of the cover. Remove the chrome cover. A light misting or brake clean. Wipe the inside clean. Place the cover chrome side up. The factory paper element three Torx style bolts removed evenly. You'll note that the air cleaner mounting bracket is clearly marked from the factory. Location is critical. Unplug the top breather hoses, remove the paper element. 7/16 top breather bolts. Remove the two of them evenly. Place the bolts aside. When removing the air cleaner backing plate, the gasket between the backing plate and the mouth of the carburetor may stay with the backing plate. Check visually for the condition of the gasket. You may or may not wanna replace it. Install a clean rag underneath the carburetor. Lightly spray the throttle mechanism. Blow clean with compressed air. Lightly lubricate with WD-40. Actuate the throttle mechanism to verify you have full throttle opening to the stop. Verify accelerator pump operation. At this point, lightly spray another clean rag with brake cleaner. Gently wipe the inside mouth of the carburetor from any road debris or fuel buildup. Re-install air cleaner backing plate, two 7/16 stop breather bolts. Tightened evenly. This is a plastic component. If over tightened, it will crack. At this point, install the serviced air cleaner, making sure to plug in the two top air breather tubes. Note location of the air cleaner mounting bracket and tighten the three bolts evenly. Re-install outer chrome air cleaner cover. Tighten center Allen. Do not over-tighten, damage to the air cleaner element will occur. This is the choke cable, as it's commonly referred to. I just wanna take a minute and review proper adjustment. You wanna take a 17 millimeter wrench, back off on the brass nut. Back off on the brass nut that would hold it to the motorcycle. You wanna take hand pressure only. Tighten the outer black plastic piece till the cable remain out on its own. This would naturally be too loose. Tighten it hand tight only. The cable will remain out. Never any lubricants on this area. If you spray it with lubricant, you'll render it useless. If you over-tighten this piece, you will break the black plastic piece. If it's broken, it will have to be purchased and replaced in the entirety. This is labeled choke. Although it is not commonly a choke in a conventional manner. This is an enrichener circuit that opens up a separate jet passage in the carburetor. On the topic of fuel delivery, this is Harley's latest generation of fuel injection throttle bodies. Note there are a number of sensors that aren't apparent on a carburetor body. Be aware of them. Although typical from the outside mouth, it looks quite similar to the constant velocity carburetor. This throttle body has a number of sensors which control not only idle speed, but sense barometric pressure, outside temperature, it has a wide mouth, feed for pulse width and injection feed. Due to the heavy spring, throttle mechanism operation is much smoother. This one fully assembled would have a black backing plate and your factory chrome outer air cleaner cover.