Loctite Epoxy Mixer Cups and Fairing Repair

Hi, I'm Bob LaRosa. Welcome to "Fix My Hog." I wanna take a quick look at Loctite epoxy mixer cops. This is a fast-cure, two-part epoxy. It comes in its own pre-measured cup. It comes in two different colors in the cup so you're getting a good thorough mix. This is a very good, very hard epoxy repair. It's made for glass, metal, hard plastics. As with any epoxy repair, try and do a little test on another broken piece before you just dive into the piece you're trying to repair. It has a nice five to 15 minute working time which again is the fixture time. That's the time before it will set up and the crack will be sealed. It's good for filling cracks. Good for filling holes. These two-part epoxy mixer cups are two types of resins, epoxy and amine resin. They are meant to be combined and mixed thoroughly before applied. Again this is good for heavy duty applications whether it be motorcycle, automobile, or around the house. It bonds glass, bounds metal, bounds most types of hard plastic. It cleans up quickly with soap and water. While it's still tacky, it can be cleaned up with a light solvent. Once it's hard, it can be sanded. I highly recommend anything you're gonna apply this to, try to sand it thoroughly. Give yourself a nice rough area for the epoxy to bite to. They call it toothing the piece. You wanna create some type of tooth that the epoxy can set into. It comes in a can which is sealed. Comes with a handful of mixer sticks and the epoxy cup itself. It also comes in packages. It's the same product, just in a more convenient package depending on what your application. I always like to use gloves when I'm working with any type of epoxy. It's not the fact that you don't get it on your skin. It's very difficult to clean up. Easier to throw away gloves than to try and get semi-hardened epoxy off your hands. Typically, before you remove the top seal on the epoxy mixer cup and start to mix them up, make sure all your surfaces are prepped. You don't wanna mix the two-part epoxy and then have to rush around worrying about the pot life of the epoxy while you prep the component. In order to this correctly, you just remove the top paper cover. You'll use one of the mixer sticks, push down in the center. This'll create the cup. As you can see, it is two different color epoxies, they're measured equally. What's nice about the two colors is you can see that they mix thoroughly which is very important. With any type of exothermic reaction, you need to make sure everything is mixed equally so it hardens and cures at the same rate throughout the repair area. You can see it's got a nice consistency to it. Just on a piece of cardboard, you can see how nice it'll spread. You can use a number of things from the wooden applicators that come supplied with the kit to regular spreaders used for autobody filler. You can really spread this stuff out nice and thin, smooth. And again cleanup while it's still tacky is as simple as a little light solvent. Clean up on your skin is simple as soap and water. Obviously you don't wanna breathe in the vapors. You absolutely wanna keep any contact with your eyes from happening with this type of two-part epoxy. What I've got behind me is a new Street Glide that I've just painted the inner fairing, and I've sealed up the two existing mirror holes. I've used the same epoxy filler and painted the fairing. Even though it's not exposed, what I like to do before I put the outer fairing on is just get a nice thin coat over the area you can see which sunk as it cured. And again it's real nice stuff to work with. You just get a little wipe. Smooth it out nice. And again to me, this really isn't a necessity on the inside of the fairing. But it's more something you do for aesthetics. I like to know if I take the fairing back off, I can look at the repair I did prior. And I took pride in it not only for the appearance on the outside that's painted, but also it's got a nice finished look on the inside. And once this two-part epoxy does dry, it can be lightly sanded and prepped if you want a complete full finished appearance. You can see as it starts to get tacky, it can be cleaned up with a little bit of solvent. It'll actually dilute it down and allow you to just wipe it up. It's real nice stuff to work with. It's also used again to bond glass, to bond hard plastics, check your components. Check for compatibility with this product, this Loctite epoxy mixer cup, with the component you're trying to repair. I like to use it especially on these which is known as the bat wing style fairing. The shark nose fairing which Harley Davidson also offers has a typical standup plastic boss with a brass threaded insert. While you have the outer fairing off whether it's a crack, whether it may be weak, whether you just wanna reinforce it, this is a perfect product. You can just take a little bit and just build up whatever area you feel is weak or may become weakened through usage. You get a little bit around those. All you really did was strengthen up the original factory design with a real nice, good quality, two-part epoxy. And again, the options... The repair options and the usage for this type of epoxy are about endless. It hardens fairly quick. It doesn't have a real short pot life. You typically have five to 15 minutes to work with it before it starts to set up. It's fully cured in 24 hours. At that point, it can be sanded and painted. I'd almost go as far as saying correctly cured, you can drill and tap this stuff. I don't know how the pull strength is, if you could torque it against it, but it's a nice hard epoxy. Same will apply up here for the windshield mounts. You get a little bit in around them. And all you're doing is adding a little extra strength to the factory boss on the inner fairing. Again, clean up, little light solvent off your gloves are off the components. If it's directly on your skin, you can just use soap and water while it's still tacky. This is Loctite's two-part resin epoxy mixer cups.